best remedy-lighting

[johnwalsh]

I currently have a new 6v 6AH battery fitted that does not hold a charge for very long when riding home from a club night using the headlamp. Its a nightmare as its 24 miles of unlit lanes. Would a battery with 11Ah solve the problem or would a replacement 6v LED headlamp bulb prove better. I didn't think the LED bulbs had a very good length of beam or have things improved.
thanks

[alan.moore]

John,
Couple of questions,
Is it a E3lm 60 watt dynamo (60 watt)?
does the ammeter show charge or discharge with the lights on and riding at normal road speeds?

Cheers
Alan

[simon.holyfield]

What machine are we talking about John?

I use both 6V halogen, 12V halogen and LED headlamp bulbs and do a regular unlit babysitting run, a 50 mile round trip. None of the options are brilliant but some are better than others.

[johnwalsh]

Its a Huntmaster and believe its the E3lm 60 W dynamo. I'm not sure I trust the ameter but it shows a slight charge when riding with H/lamp. Its ok when riding providing the revs are kept up, but when approaching a bend and slowing down the lights go out. The dynamo kicks out 15+ volts when tested and there is a charging rate of 7+ volts at the battery terminals . It seems as though the battery just can't keep pace with the load. All new wiring and no shorts. My Matchy has exactly the same set-up but with an 11AH battery and thats never a problem. Thats why I suspect the battery and wonder if fitting an LED bulb would sort the problem as its cheaper than a new battery.
Simon, I presume you are talking different bikes?
Apologies for the continuous re-editing, but I have just read your blog Simon and found it interesting. I have researched the LED bulb alternative a bit and on the CDRC site they seem to mention focusing a lot! which I don't feel I want to bother with. I'm very happy with the current ( no pun intended ) 6V set up and when working its the best 6V lighting I've had so far with all my bikes past and present. The simplest test I can do is swap the 11AH battery from my other bike and see if that sorts it.
thanks for now

[simon.holyfield]

Yes! Sorry if that was a bit confusing:

• The Bantam has a 12V halogen BPF, a LED tail light, a Wipac Series 55 alternator charging a 12V, 8 Ah VRLA battery through a electronic regulator.
  
  The SQ4 has a LED BPF from CDRC, a LED tail light, an C35SD charging a pair of 6V 11 Ah VRLA batteries through a VReg-2 regulator.
  
  The W/NG has a tungsten BPF, a LED tail light, an E3HM charging a 11 Ah VRLA battery through a VReg-2 regulator.

Personally I think you are on the right track - I think your battery is ill...

[johnwalsh]

Thanks for that Simon, and can I presume, by the timing of your last reply, you are not a Strictly come dancing fan either.
ps. I'm envious of your seemingly easy access to Cromer and N.Norfolk, what beautiful biking country. I had a cottage at Southrepps for a while but never got round to taking a bike up there. One day, perhaps.

[simon.holyfield]

Strictly? Definitely not my thing at all...

And as you say, we are very lucky to have such great roads around here. I'm a native Londoner, but came up here to work 30 years ago. Actually the roads you have around you help suggest what electrical system is right for you. Most of my riding is relatively fast road stuff, so I wouldn't have any qualms about converting to 12v and I will do that with my own FH when the time comes.

[ColinPeck]

Hi John
My Huntmaster used to charge in 4th at over 35 mph, but I found in traffic (especially when the brake light was in play a lot) that I was sitting in total darkness at traffic lights. I have fitted led's to both the head and tail / brake light and haven't had a problem since. Even to the extent that I ride with the lights on if it's less than a sunny day, no flat battery problems. In 4th it's charging at 25 mph now, I am conscious of potentially flattening the battery so if I'm likely to be doing under 25 mph for any length of time I change down.
The battery I have on the bike is very small, nicked off one of my Bantams years ago and it's on its way out but since the charging of the bike's fine I'm in no hurry to replace it.
Using a bigger capacity battery will only let you have more miles before it goes flat, it won't solve the going flat issue. The LED headlight gives a very white beam which lights up the immediate area very well, it's also much more noticeable for cars to see. However it kind of runs out of puff at a shorter distance than a standard bulb, you get a much wider / higher all round light but just can't see so far ahead.
Is this an issue? I don't think so and fitted them to both my Huntmaster and M21 and will continue to use them on any dynamo bike I get in the future. I did look at changing the dynamo drive from chain to belt to help with the charge rate but figure the bulbs do mostly the same thing

Colin

[admin]

John

Mine don't do that.
My lights go dimmer, without some revs, but the ammeter balances at anything above town speeds.They certainly don't go out at junctions.
I think my 12v batteries are 8AH.

I have switched back to halogen 35w as although the 12v BPF LED front bulbs (with other LED's on the bike) that I obtained, were super bright, their scatter pattern wasn't ideal in a few different headlamps (and didn't give me much more usable light on the road) and both bulbs died within 18 months. One on the way home: vibration ?
The current draw was, however, almost indetectable and my little 12v battery could have run for hours, without appreciable lighting impact.

Same as you, I'd think battery first.

[simon.holyfield]

So do we think that this lack of range with the LED is some sort of focus issue? someone pointed out, and its true, that while the LED high beam does not illuminate the trees in the distance you get a strong reflection off street signs and things.

It might be something to do with the colour of the lights, and what gets absorbed by trees & what doesn't.