Tips regarding rear wheel removal 1956 NH

[Kevin_RSA]

Hi Folks

Apart from finding pin prick leak in tank (currently being addressed) I also need to have some work completed on rear wheel as mechanic identified some side to side movement. I have been asked to take rear wheel off and take to his workshop. Any tips regarding best process of removal? I was going to raise back end a little on small wooden blocks as I do not have a ramp. On another note, my reading of articles indicates new models were released in September, as mine was registered mid November 1956, does this mean it’s a 1957 model?

[Kevin_RSA]

I’ve been informed I am ‘fettling’ which is normal when purchasing an old motorcycle… looking forward to more riding and a little less fettling

[Kevin_RSA]

John ‘Mooneyes’ Cooper who completed the restoration, I believe around 2016

[simon.holyfield]

I've used 'Seal-All' on tank pinholes in the past. My first repair using it was 8 years ago and it's still sound.

[Julian Murphy]

Dont know what has been identified as side to side movement. If all fasteners are tight, then suspect the wheel bearings?


Before you get some 4 blocks under the stand, slacken everything off -
- Slacken the spindle locating bolts - just 1 turn.
- Loosen the wheel spindle (from the R/H side),
- Brake torque arm - remove completely (note its handed, and marked outside)
- Slacken off the 4 nuts holding the sprocket to wheel hub. Access through the large round black grommet in the lower chaincase.
- 'unhook' the brake cable and remove the threaded adjuster.

Now get blocks under the stand feet.

Remove the 4 nuts,
Pull out the spindle, from the r/h side. Support the wheel as you pull the spindle out. The r/h spacer will fall, and you can then pull the wheel towards you to clear the 4 studs from the sprocket. The wheel will then be free, and its heavy.
Lean and twist the wheel to clear the mudguard.

Job done.

Investigation commences.

[Kevin_RSA]

Dont know what has been identified as side to side movement. If all fasteners are tight, then suspect the wheel bearings?


Before you get some 4 blocks under the stand, slacken everything off -
- Slacken the spindle locating bolts - just 1 turn.
- Loosen the wheel spindle (from the R/H side),
- Brake torque arm - remove completely (note its handed, and marked outside)
- Slacken off the 4 nuts holding the sprocket to wheel hub. Access through the large round black grommet in the lower chaincase.
- 'unhook' the brake cable and remove the threaded adjuster.

Now get blocks under the stand feet.

Remove the 4 nuts,
Pull out the spindle, from the r/h side. Support the wheel as you pull the spindle out. The r/h spacer will fall, and you can then pull the wheel towards you to clear the 4 studs from the sprocket. The wheel will then be free, and its heavy.
Lean and twist the wheel to clear the mudguard.

Job done.

Investigation commences.

Thanks Julian…. Perfect description… the mechanic did offer the view it could be wheel bearings so hopefully it is not going to be a major issue. He tried the bike out and was surprised at how well it rode considering the amount of movement… I’m learning so much from you folks… thanks so much for your support.

[Simon.Gardiner]

I feel it's necessary to mention the bleeping obvious - make sure everything is seated and tightened properly before diagnosing problems!

SG

[will_curry]

Doesn't the tail of the rear mudguard unbolt and lift clear to allow the wheel to
come out without the need to block up the stand or find a convenient kerb edge?

The detachable mudguard tail has saved my back many times with the 1954
sidecar.

[simon.holyfield]

I buy the wheel bearings from Simply Bearings - I've been using the sealed ones recently. They're cheap as chips.

[Julian Murphy]

Its true.

The rear mudguard does unbolt to allow you to wheel the wheel out.

Depends how much of a faff that might be, and also getting that all lined up and back together.

Luckily, I have a hydraulic table to lift the bike up so I am not on my knees.