Ariel Owners Motorcycle Club

Hi guys, DC40 question!
This is the panel I got which i believe it is a post war original (PA cutout??). The bakelite DC40 I have fits perfectly.
Is there any bronze version that fits on this panel?

The brass versions do exist and copies were for sale from AOMCC Singles Spares a few years ago. I have checked in the Singles Spares today for you (they are stored a few miles from where I live) but there are only standard brass ones left in stock now.

I do have an original brass one on my own 1937 RH500 but it is the only original one I have ever seen.

Thank you Paul for checking!
So if i understand correctly, there is 3 brass types: screw type, pin & spring type and bayonet type?
My panel is for the latter?

Karol now does good brass copies

https://www-arielklub-sk.translate.goog ... r_hl=en-GB

But you will need an earlier (correct) tank top! - They do turn up

How does the correct tank panel looks like?

On another note, today I installed the head and rocker box but i am not very happy with how the exhaust rocker makes contact with the valve due to the valve seat being too deep.
Any ideas? Shall I shorten a bit the pushrod tube as already suggested? I made those myself from 7/16” 20SWG stainless steel tube because i had 350 ones.

The valve stem should be in line with the adjuster when the valve is half-way open; otherwise you get increased wear of the valve stems and guides. By shortening the pushrod you will only get the contact point closer to the centre or the valve stem, but the adjuster and valve won't be aligned. The correct way would be to shorten the valve (or get valve seat inserts), but there isn't much material to remove at the top of the valves, and I gather you have the G&S with hardened ends. I have the G&S valves in my 37 NH, and they work very well without valve caps. I would definitely remove the valve cap, even if it doesn't make a big difference. How does it look with the valve caps removed?

Hi Volker, indeed there isn’t much space to shorten the valve. It looks like that without the cap.

This really looks as if the contact between adjuster and valve is at the edge of the valve stem. As others have said, the proper way to fix this would be to install valve seat inserts. People told me that they successfully solved this problem by shortening the pushrod. Of course, the gas flow will be much worse because of the recessed valves, and the incorrect geometry will increase wear in the valve guides.

I was also warned that the exhaust valve tends to get stuck in these heads because they receive lubrication at best only from the oil in the exhaust gases. I ran a small flexhone up and down the guide. Then I didn't fit the valve cap and always put a few drops of oil on the tip of the valve when I get home and the engine is still hot, hoping that some will find its way into the guide. I haven't had any problems.

paul.jameson wrote: Mon Feb 16, 2026 6:35 pm The brass versions do exist and copies were for sale from AOMCC Singles Spares a few years ago. I have checked in the Singles Spares today for you (they are stored a few miles from where I live) but there are only standard brass ones left in stock now.

I do have an original brass one on my own 1937 RH500 but it is the only original one I have ever seen.

What does an original brass panel light look like? I'm curious to know what I have on my 1937 VH.

Bruce