Hi.
I decided to bite the bullet and machine the centre I've got and fit the 3 plates. Turns out it rides like a complete new bike. The bite is strong but smooth and is lovely to pull away and no slipping when the cam comes in. There's also no drag after its been ridden for 30 or 40 miles like there was with two
plates. The extra plate pushed up to the clutch basket gives that and the chainwheel a bit more stability.I took a couple of photos before and after turning if they appear.
Cheers
Richard
[url]https://photos.app.goo.gl/uP2u4DZFK1sQj3Y56[/img]
[url]https://photos.app.goo.gl/bVtYpmjrdGE6Nwj2A[/img]
https://photos.app.goo.gl/n9mkAezBVfnGUQS98
2 plate clutch centre.
-
Richard.Southerington
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2024 2:47 pm
- Contact:
Re: 2 plate clutch centre.
Richard
I need to ask if you can post images directly to the Forum and not put in links, please.
See:
viewtopic.php?p=97233#p97233
(We've got too many posts from other days when people put in links to external sources eg photobucket and when times change - as they do - the images disappear and the posts become largely meaningless.)
SG
I need to ask if you can post images directly to the Forum and not put in links, please.
See:
viewtopic.php?p=97233#p97233
(We've got too many posts from other days when people put in links to external sources eg photobucket and when times change - as they do - the images disappear and the posts become largely meaningless.)
SG
Administrator
webmaster@arielownersmcc.com
webmaster@arielownersmcc.com
Re: 2 plate clutch centre.
Looks like you did the same as me.
The better mod though (if you can find one) is to fit the later mainshaft which as the longer splines which last longer and potentially wobble less. (About twice the contact area I'd guess).
As I'm assuming you have a lathe. It's quite easy to change the mainshaft without completely dismantling the box.
Remove the outer cover then the kickstart pawls/spring/bush.
Find or Make up a suitable diameter bit of bar, the same diameter as the bearing inner race (17mm) less a tad for easier sliding.
Needs to be a bit longer than the mainshaft (18" will do).
Stick it in a collet chuck (for accuracy) drill and tap a 1/2" X 20tpi thread in one end about half an inch deep will do. (I machines a very slight taper on mine for about an inch or so).
Thread that onto the (kickstart) end of the shaft and push it out. (stops the internals falling apart).
Screw the new one back on the bar and push it back through.
Might take a bit of a wiggle to get things to align but I found it remarkably easy.
The better mod though (if you can find one) is to fit the later mainshaft which as the longer splines which last longer and potentially wobble less. (About twice the contact area I'd guess).
As I'm assuming you have a lathe. It's quite easy to change the mainshaft without completely dismantling the box.
Remove the outer cover then the kickstart pawls/spring/bush.
Find or Make up a suitable diameter bit of bar, the same diameter as the bearing inner race (17mm) less a tad for easier sliding.
Needs to be a bit longer than the mainshaft (18" will do).
Stick it in a collet chuck (for accuracy) drill and tap a 1/2" X 20tpi thread in one end about half an inch deep will do. (I machines a very slight taper on mine for about an inch or so).
Thread that onto the (kickstart) end of the shaft and push it out. (stops the internals falling apart).
Screw the new one back on the bar and push it back through.
Might take a bit of a wiggle to get things to align but I found it remarkably easy.
-
Richard.Southerington
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2024 2:47 pm
- Contact:
Re: 2 plate clutch centre.
Thanks for that,
Unless I'm mistaken, if you look at the picture of my centre, it's already the thicker spline one with the raised centre boss
Richard.
Unless I'm mistaken, if you look at the picture of my centre, it's already the thicker spline one with the raised centre boss
Richard.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

