What to do?

[dave.owen]

Drags list the white metal bushes.

Dave

[Paul Slootheer]

Drags list the white metal bushes.
Dave

Dave yes I have seen them, they are looking good.

I've emailed Colin and wait for a answer, but maybe one of you knows.
Is it Drags ? Vincent

Vincent I did have contact with Colin a few days ago! He also can suply new made bushes. Bronze with Babbitt.
If you are going to the rally I would be greatfull if you might take one also for me with you, if you want. They are 70 GBS.

And another thing…
Not having the luxery of new old stock conrods I have bought two club rods for the KH.
But what puzzels me is that the nuts are on the underside.
How do I get to the conrod nuts on the timingside (and torque them down!) conrod as the rod only goes on the crank after passing the bridge in the crankcase. What am I missing? or is this a super fiddling process with the crank half way in....?

I must say I do not have the answer to that... As far as I can see you are right concerning the bridge. This means you must torque before shifting the crank on it's place (if that's possible). Did you allready tried it, or is the old bush not pressent? Why they choose to place the nuts on the bottom puzzles me. I see your new conrods are quite lighter in weight than the originals, hope you can compensate with the pistons or are you going for a re-balance of the crankshaft?

Regards, Paul

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Hello Paul, just got a answer from Colin . I'll PM you.
reg. the rods, According to him I have to attach the rods to the crank before it goes into the case.
So I take it that this bridge is no problem, I'll do a dry test.

Balance, well, as Colin says it is relatively easy to put crank + rods in the case, I first try the engine out with whatever the balance is now.
If no good I'll take it apart and go balancing !

What is the weight of your KH conrods ?

[Paul Slootheer]

It looks the later type conrods are around 285 grams on a kitchen scale...These have a more sturdy end cap and are without small end bush.

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

For your benefit:


https://nl.rs-online.com/web/p/gunmetal ... s/1819423/

Leaded Gunmetal, (Cast Lead Bronze)

A general purpose free-machining lead bronze. Although lower in tensile strength than phosphor bronze, it possesses good bearing properties with the ability to conform to minor shaft misalignments. The presence of lead reduces friction, running temperature and the possibility of seizure under conditions of poor lubrication.
Supplied in 13in lengths

Conforms to SAE 660 (SAE 660 can also be used as an alternative to BS 1400 LB4)

Typical applications - bearings, bushes, washers and linings and for conditions with less than adequate lubrication. It may also be used in conjunction with softer shaft materials than would be recommended for the harder lead-free phosphor bronze.
Standards

SAE 660; CuSn7Pb7Zn3 (ISO); BS 1400 LG4 (British); DIN 1705 Rg7 (German)

F1819423-01.jpg (12.11 KiB) Viewed 3283 times

[Paul Slootheer]

Good find Vincent, thanks also Peter!

[bill.bottrill]

My photo's show on the left the bushes I removed from my mk.1 on the right bushes which came with the bike amongst a pile of bits.
The bike engine was last run around 1965 after what looks like a rebore and bearing change,it seems like it seized very quickly thereafter(offside rear) and was abandoned.
I decided to soda blast the crankcases and left the bushes in situ as I thought this process was very mild and wouldn't harm them,they looked perfect at the time but when the cases came back the babbit had come away in the same area as the earlier posts.So it would seem this fracturing of the babbit occurs very quickly after they are fitted to the engine, the metal just held in place by the bearing this damage occurs on the lipped edge side at the bottom of the bearing,so it could be flexing of the crank as suggested.
the bearings are ariel et1018 aa k5/et1018 aa s6 printed on them. Although it was stupid and lazy to leave the bearings in I don't think the soda blasting caused the damage which was already done it just lifted it away.the edges were quite sharp as can be seen.the other set of bearing which would have come from the engine which seems to have had a very hard life are more normally worn and the flaking not so bad.
I asked bruce for advice and he said the same as earier posts he sent me a diagram to machine some bronze,but I fancied some gun metal lead bronze as above posts it was easy to do
The oil holes were positioned horizonally in situ,I decided to position them vertically as oil would then get to what I think is the most critical area of the bearing surface,the oil would be retained in the bearing if positioned horizonally,but with the fracuring would drain away and then have to fill up the well to the horizonal position every time it stopped,it's only a second or two but could make a difference to wear patterns.