Technical Questions: 1928 Model C

[cmfalco]

For anyone following this, a few hours before the bike landed in the U.S. on Monday forms were emailed to print, sign, scan into a pdf, and email back allowing the customs house broker to act on my behalf. On Tuesday morning more forms arrived for me to certify the bike was older than 25 years and met all Federal emissions and safety regulations at the time it was made (i.e. none, in the case of the Ariel). An hour later I got another email from the broker saying they needed the full VIN, rather than the Z1234 I had printed on the forms, or else I wouldn't be able to license it for the road. I replied that the number stamped on the frame was the full "VIN" that had been used by Ariel 90 years ago. So far, nothing more since clarifying that issue yesterday so I don't yet know when it will be on a truck headed toward me. I'm having it delivered to a friend's shop that's closed Sun.-Mon. so if it doesn't get here by Saturday it will be Tuesday (or later) before I see it.

[cmfalco]

Finally, it arrived today after 24 days in transit. It was air freighted on a slow airplane. A very slow airplane.

[Simon.Gardiner]

A floating one??

SG

[andyhughesflattankarielpre25]

Or a bi plane maybe

[cmfalco]

The Ariel is now a properly licensed resident of my State but I haven't tried to start it yet because the grease fitting on the exhaust rocker is blocked. The tecalemit fittings don't allow much pressure to be applied so I'm awaiting delivery of the zerc fittings so I can apply some more serious pressure. Should that not work (with heat if necessary) the rocker assembly will have to come apart. It would anyway but I am hoping to put some miles on it before diving into the rebuild

[cmfalco]

Update for anyone who might be interested: The zerk fittings arrived allowing me to lubricate both rockers. I also added some of this semi-liquid grease to the valve tips, valve stems and cups at the end of the pushrods. Meanwhile, I completely disassembled the carburetor to clean and inspect all passages and lap the inlet valve on the float chamber, then checked that the fuel level was at the correct height just below the hole for the pilot air screw.

It started remarkably easily and I could see oil dripping through the sight glass so I made three laps of my driveway before shutting it down. I'm still learning how its prehistoric oiling system is supposed to function but it left enough oil on the driveway in the places I stopped for a few moments that I suspect something might be wrong with the breather. Since I already know replacement parts aren't plentiful, and not wanting to risk damage until I understand what is normal and abnormal behavior, it's now back up on the lift for me to have a peek inside the timing case.

[adrie.degraaff]

You should drain the crankcase before starting, after that you cann't go wrong.

[cmfalco]

You should drain the crankcase before starting, after that you cann't go wrong.

I found a relevant thread on a Model C with some posts by you from 3 April through 9 April of last year. Unfortunately, the answers were brief and didn't comprehensive details on the breather system. It certainly would help to have a comprehensive description of this aspect of the engine, i.e. the components, operation, and troubleshooting.

[adrie.degraaff]

details on the breather system.

There is one open breather on the crankcase and one open breather on the cam box, they will be spraying oil if the crankcase level is to high, if you stop the engine the dripper will go on as long as there is a vacuum.
The book says; drain the crankcase old oil at the end of the run.

I have the cam breatherpipe leading to the valve guids so they live longer.

I cann't do better than this.

[cmfalco]

There is one open breather on the crankcase and one open breather on the cam box, they will be spraying oil if the crankcase level is to high, if you stop the engine the dripper will go on as long as there is a vacuum.

Thanks very much for your reply. but, how high is too high? How many cc of oil have to accumulate in the bottom of the crankcase before excessive loss begins? Also, the information I have found (e.g. p. 82 of 'Black Ariels') says the problem of continued dripping was with the system used in 1927 where the needle regulated oil but was solved with the revised system used in 1928 where the needle regulated air bleed. Mine stopped dripping as soon as the engine stopped as would be expected when air is used to eliminate the reduced pressure at the inlet of the pump.

The book says; drain the crankcase old oil at the end of the run.

Where did you find the instructions to drain the crankcase after every run? Page 16 of the 1928 'Owners Guide' says to drain the crankcase every 1000 miles, not after every run, and nowhere in all the literature I was able to locate did I find anything other than this 1000 mile recommendation.

Thanks in advance for your help getting to answers for these questions.