My 1950 VH

[david.anderson]

Keith
If you have checked the timing I would not worry. My concern was if the blue was recent. Clearly your new engine has not had a hard run but if the pipe was new there would be no reason for blue except for mixture or ignition.
Virtually any properly tuned bike that has had an extended hard run, including on a dyno is going to have a blue pipe. The other reasons for heat bluing being of course lean mixture or timing. Or a blow torch but that was one I would never have thought of.
That said, a good chrome job in which the exhaust pipe is copper coated first is more prone to bluing than a cheap chrome job where the chrome is applied direct to the steel.
I would also be careful with your speeds, especially as you have a lower gearing. It is very easy to nip one up with a few to many revs. I am currently running in a VB (23 tooth engine sprocket) with a new, old stock Hepolite piston. With 400 miles on the bike I ran it at 45mph for 3 miles before starting on an extended up hill run at 40mph. The engine felt like it was tightening so I slipped the clutch and it stopped immediately. I had done the same trip before several times at 35mph without a problem.
After returning home I lifted the cylinder to check for damage and fortunately there was none. My piston clearance was .0045” as per original specification with a split skirt piston, so I increased it to .006” and I don’t expect any further problems but I will probably not exceed 40mph (except for short bursts) until I have 1000 miles on it. Newer piston alloys do not need as long a run in period.
Good luck
David

[Keith.owen]

David,
As always I thank you for your support and good advice.

Tonight I'm going to just check that the timing isn't past TDC on full retard and make sure that nothing is coming loose, then tomorrow I'll go out for a run.
Interestingly enough the there is a story behind the current engine. The bottom end I got at the Beaulieu auto jumble way back in 1976 and it was in very good condition. The barrel, piston and head I picked up at Ken Grahams, a motorcycle shop long gone - after repeatedly asking if they had the bits a barrel and piston emerged. Some time later a head appeared on display and I sent my then fiancé to secure it (since she walked by the place everyday). The engine was then run for about 50 miles, if much and then not used again for 36 years.

Peter Kemp confirmed that the big end was still ok (has steel fly wheels) and I re-used the piston and barrel that still had life. What I don't know is if the piston and barrel came from separate machines, but since there was still life in them I am re-using them and will only replace the piston and rebore when needs be (it is standard according to Peter). I am treating them as new since in any case the rings will not be in the same position so I guess there will still be some bedding in to be done. Also I 'scoured' the bore to get some oil retention. Everything else in the machine has been replaced (all bushes, bearings, valves, springs - you name it, so I think it is sensible to just take it easy and also get used to the bike!

I feel like Mr.Toad in the Wind in the Willows!

Keith

[Jay.Watson]

Can't help with your running query but "what a lovely looking machine". It's been a few years since I last fully rebuilt a bike but the feeling (pride etc.) once done is wonderful, and that, certainly, looks a bike to be proud of...

[Keith.owen]

Hi Jay,
Thank you for the encouragement!
Believe it or not here are still a number of things that need fettling in order to 'finish the job' amongst them, the oil tank needs an 'Ariel Horseshoe' transfer and then lacquering - a job for the winter break! There comes a point at which one has to get on the road and tidy up the details as one goes along!

I have gained a lot of satisfaction from what I have learned both from the forum and as it where the 'hands on' experience gained from putting things into practice!

I'll post pics of some of the tweaks!

Keith

[Keith.owen]

Hi all,
An update and a question.

I have done just over 200 miles now and the more I ride her the more I seem to want to! This bike has a beautiful balance and can be ridden easily at less than a walking pace (or so it seems). It's also quite tractable - great fun!!

One thing is bothering me ever so slightly though. After she's been standing she smokes like a two stroke (leaves smoke trail for about 100 yards) for a short while after which she settles down. I realise that the oil that has circulated around the engine will eventually collect in the sump, but, I'm wondering if the return pump is scavenging as it should.

The question is 'does anyone know of a means of testing the return feed to determine if there is an air leak' that does not involve stripping the timing chest down?

Or, am I worrying too much.

She isn't using massive amounts of oil neither is she leaking and she seems to run just fine (starts & ticks over great).

Any thoughts / input would be much appreciated!!!

Thanks,

Keith

[Steven.Carter]

Hi Keith
You can fix a small length of plastic pipe to the scavenge pipe and see how it sucks up oil out of a jar. It should empty it quite quickly.
My friend had similar problems but you dont want to know how he fixed it I'll tell you anyway but you might like to sit down.
The hole in the crankcase that takes the scavenge pipe emerges behind the oil pump but in his crankcase he had a leak right next to the main bearing! A previous owner had the main bearing hole enlarged but too close to the oil passage. This entailed tearing the whole engine apart and much swearing!!
You could take the oil pump off and try and blow up the scavenge pipe with your finger over the hole behind the pump. Do you remember putting the extra thin gasket washer over the oil pipe behind the inner timing cover?
Steve

[david.anderson]

Keith
The easiest way to check the return pump is to look at the oil return in the tank, preferably comparing it with another VH. Oil return at idle though is just a series of bubbles which increase to a flow as revs increase.
If the oil tank level is constant and there is a good return then you are unlikely to have a return oil problem.
A reason for smoking on start up is worn valve guides. There are no valve guide seals on the VH, or any other Ariel for that matter. When the engine is stopped all it takes is a couple of drops of oil to run down the guide and into the port and it will smoke on start up. The square 4 is quite prone to this as the top valve collar collects oil that then drains between the split retainers, down the guide and into the port. The inclined valves of the VH prevent this, but the 1950 VH does have plenty of oil pumped at pressure into the rockers and it is not uncommon.
David

[Keith.owen]

Hi Steve and David,

In response to Steve, yes I have tried the jam jar with oil trick and the problem is that as much oil seems to be thrown around and out of the bottom of the crank case as goes up the tube - oil everywhere. I didn't fit an extra washer as far as I recall; trouble that in Waller it also advises against overdoing it and distorting the casting.

In response to David, I shall see if I can get a comparison of oil tank levels, although I think it could be the guides since I didn't replace them; I do have a new set and unless it is potentially harmful I'll leave all as is until the winter when I'll probably get the barrel re-bored and an over-sized piston fitted as well as fit the new guides. At the moment apart from the initial smoking all seems well and considering the low mileage I do, I figure it should survive.

I'd prefer not to have to strip the timing chest if it could be avoided and particularly not keen on sticking in extra washers on the off chance.

Any thoughts as to a lack of wisdom in this approach appreciated though!

Keith

[Steven.Carter]

The extra washer is very thin, I doubt that it could distort the timing inner cover, it just helps seal the oil pipe.

Steve

[nevhunter]

The case faces are not in new condition, generally and the sealing around the pipe is critical. The factory always recommended fitting the additional (thin) gasket washer. So do I. Nev