Ethanol and paint

[Keith.owen]

Hi,
Just about to take my NH out on the road (it has only taken 15 years)!

BUT a problem has arisen.

When I painted the tank, I lacquered it using Hicote. Sadly, the result was a bit orange peeled due to my lack of skill and the conditions in which I was working + rattle can. As a consequence, I cut it back (using Meguiares -is that how it's spelt), but was maybe a bit too enthusiastic.

I had to fuel the bike using one of those plastic cans with a spout result being that a few drops of fuel bounced out and onto the tank surface with an unpleasant effect. I do not want to go through the exercise of re-lacquering the tank (not right now, anyway) so my question.

Can anyone recommend a wax or similar treatment that can be applied as a polish or the likes, and will provide a modicum of protection?

As you can imagine, years ago this was not a problem, but now- a bit hacked off (even if my fault).

Keith

[dennis.t]

I use UPOL clearcoat off eBay and it protects the paint underneath. It is relatively cheap. Use a mask or spray outside. Check it is compatible with what has been used before on a small hidden area. It dries quickly in less than 10 minutes and is rock hard in 24 hours.
Dennis

[simon.holyfield]

I've seen a couple of those, and one which is two pack. Do you mind showing us which one you use?

[ian williams]

as far as i know the only way you will have paint that possibly doesnt suffer effect of modern fuel is to use 2k activated clear laquer on top of 2k activated gloss paint , that will go hard and the clear laquer should give you the protection .

dont use 2k air dry because it will still be affected , i painted one of my NH tanks using a 2K air dry gloss paint and it just streaks as soon as any petrol touches it and even after 4 years since i painted it.

ive used all kinds of wax polish or coloured waxes on it but normally end up sometime using some t cut or rubbing compound on it to clean it up and will probably need to repaint it at some point, although luckily i have a repaired tank thats already been painted in 2k activated paint and laquer and can put that on when i need to .

ive made my own gaskets for the tank cap using thick 2.5mm gasket sheet because the draganfly ones shrivel up in an hour after fitting them , i think the problem is that the cork used in drags gasket/seal is rubber impregnated cork and it should be 100% natural cork or possibly some manmade material that isnt affected by the ethanol type petrol [even 5% ] , i think my cap seals are probably a bit too hard to squash down and seal properly though .

bit of a job to get my tank cap drip free when its on , i guess some seal better than others , but if you dont fill tank to brim it helps lol.

ian

[dennis.t]

I use UPOL code PCLC/AL.
Dennis

[simon.holyfield]

I use UPOL code PCLC/AL.
Dennis

Thanks Dennis - I shall buy some, it looks useful.

[Roger Gwynn]

I don't have any problems with the tanks with original factory paint or the ones painted with brushing enamel, no extra coating applied.

[paul.jameson]

I paint all my petrol tanks myself, using a professional spray gun powered by compressor and using cellulose paint. I have never lacquered a petrol tank.

Below is a typical example of the problem caused by petrol leakage from the tank cap.

After a rub over with Triplewax Car Wax we are back to the following without removal of any paint:

On the Red Hunter, the tank was painted in around 2014 but the panel was painted as long ago as 1990.

That said, I had an outbreak of idleness when I came to paint the oil tank for the Red Hunter and used rattle cans instead of the proper spray gun and cellulose. Most of the oil tank still looks ok, but look what spray or spitting back from the carb has done to the top corner.

The worst damage has been done to my 1954 KH tank, which was painted back in 2009 and the bike has done around 17,000 miles since. (That long cream line coming from the filler neck at 5 o'clock is a reflection from the striplight above.)

Note that I have carefully removed the paint which was on the lip of the filler. If I remember correctly, the paint damage was largely done whilst the paint remained over the filler lip but once I removed the paint, the problem more or less disappeared. You do need as good a gasket under the petrol cap as you can find (or make). I have a suspicion that one made out of leather would be the best option but I am using standard grey gasket material at present.

[dennis.t]

I found that when parts are sprayed with cellulose paint the paint takes weeks or months to fully harden and chips easily. It is for that reason I use a clearcoat a few days after applying the cellulose paint to give a tougher finish. Nothing worse than seeing your newly painted parts get scratched or chipped.
The UPOL clearcoat is not compatible with all paints, it crazes Hammerite for example, so it should be tested on a hidden area first.
Dennis