NH valve lifter not working.

[dennis.t]

I bought a valve lifter for a '54 NH from Draganfly, part number 330-38. I cannot get the lifter arm to grip the spindle shaft despite several attempts. The arm locks up the spindle when the nut is tightened preventing the spindle from turning. Backing off the nut shows that the arm is not gripping the spindle taper. Without the rubber O ring seal the arm will grip the spindle. I also tried using a spring in place of the O ring but I had the same problem.
Has anyone used a new valve lifter and got it to work correctly?
Another issue with the Drags valve lifter is that it goes too deep into the rocker box and prevents the inspection cap from screwing on. I sorted this problem by packing the fibre sealing washer for the spindle bush with additional shims; not ideal but it works.
Dennis

[Paul Slootheer]

Dennis, I suggest to post some pictures, which can be helpfull for giving advice…

[dennis.t]

With the rubber O ring (supplied 345-38) or a spring of the correct size I cannot get the lifter arm (338-30) to grip the spindle taper (335-30) necessary for the valve lifter to work. When I tighten the nut (S1-2) the spindle locks up but the lever does not 'bite' on the spindle. It looks like the arm cannot get far enough along the spindle taper to 'bite'. If I remove the O ring or spring the arm does 'bite' onto the spindle but that is not a practical solution due to end float and probably oil leakage.
Dennis

IMG_2855.jpg (52 KiB) Viewed 165 times

[nevhunter]

The original washer is thin and dished isn't it? There never was an O ring,]. nev

[dave.owen]

I would contact draganfly, hive them a chance to sort it out

Dave

[JohnnyBeckett]

hi, i would get on to Drages they supplied all the parts for my lifter when i was doing a rebuild

[dennis.t]

I spoke with Drags and they think the spindle needs shimming and are sending me some shims.
Looking more closely today:
1. Their operating arm hole seems to big to grip the shaft early enough to stop the shaft locking up. Luckily I have an old one that fits.
2. Their set up, as in the parts diagram on Drags web site, will not work for me with the large rubber O ring in place so I am leaving it out.
3. I had to pack the bush considerably with shims to stop the bush fouling the inspection cap threads
I think with the new shims the end float will be acceptable and still allow the shaft to rotate when the arm grips the shaft. Not sure if this set up will be oil tight though.
Thank you for your suggestions.
Dennis

[will_curry]

Looking at two valve lifter assemblies in my collection both have about 1/16" endfloat which
is controlled by the disc washer which is fitted into the assembly first. Then comes a cork washer
and finally a thin steel washer which is retained by the arm on the spindle.

While the cork washer acts like a gland it is the taper on the shoulder of the spindle bearing against
the seat of the body which provides the first defence against leaks. I can't remember who now told me
to do it but when I've had problems with leaks grinding the shaft into the body has always stopped the
leakage.

This taper is why the slight spring loading of the shaft is important. Without it the taper will not
seal and oil mist will blow out almost without obstruction as there is always some pressure in the exhaust
rocker box coming up from the crankcase and out of the exhaust valve guide.

[nevhunter]

That's on the Ball. Nev