Waterslide Transfers

[tony.barnett]

Is it normal to lacquer or varnish over waterslide transfers? I assumed once they were fixed that they wouldn't lift off if they get wet - maybe I'm wrong...?

[simon.holyfield]

Mine are lacquered over. You'll need it for mechanical protection as much as protection from water.

[paul.jameson]

Jerry recommends Humbrol clear lacquer as the varnish. I have used this successfully for some years now. When I rebuilt my Ariel sidecar in 1994/5 I didn't lacquer the transfers which came off during the first shower I went through.

[tony.barnett]

Humbrol as in the model paints? I assume you just paint it on? Do you have a link or a pic to the exact stuff I need Paul?

Oddly Jerry never mentioned this...

[tony.barnett]

This?

[paul.jameson]

Mine is in a traditional tiny tin (it has been in stock for some years) with Gloss 35 on the lid. I expect it will be the same stuff.

I think the adhesive on transfers may have changed around 1990. When I rebuilt my Red Hunter in 1990-91 I put transfers on the oil tank without varnish which stayed put with no trouble for around 20 years. Other transfers, like the ones on the sidecar and the manufacturers transfer on the rear number plate have since washed off with great ease until I started using the Humbrol varnish.

[rick king]

Mine is in a traditional tiny tin (it has been in stock for some years) with Gloss 35 on the lid. I expect it will be the same stuff.

I think the adhesive on transfers may have changed around 1990. When I rebuilt my Red Hunter in 1990-91 I put transfers on the oil tank without varnish which stayed put with no trouble for around 20 years. Other transfers, like the ones on the sidecar and the manufacturers transfer on the rear number plate have since washed off with great ease until I started using the Humbrol varnish.

Are there different types of waterslide transfer? I used laser printed ones on some treader frames I painted, due to the weather I put off over painting them for months, lots of months. When I picked up a frame several of the waterslides fell off! So after much messing and testing I put them on with humbrol decalfix or microsol[&microset] instead of using water, they adhered to the surface much better. But the old silk screened ones were a lot better, so I am told.
I put those waterslides on in 2014 and buried them in clear and they look just as good today as the day they went on.

[tony.barnett]

I've found Gloss 35 in tins. I'll ask Jerry what he thinks.

Thanks all.

[Julian Murphy]

I would be careful about brushing on a clearcoat.

Depending on , inks used in prining the transfer and/or solvents in the clearcoat, the 'mechanical' efffect of brushing could disolve the inks and make them run.

Much better is to 'flat back' the whole area, say the whole lid of the toolbox using 1500 or 2000 grit wet and dry, used wet, then lightly T cut, apply the transfer, wait for an overnight dry, clean with IPA or paint shop surface wipe, then spray on 2 or 3 'dusted' clearcoats leaving 10 or 15 minutes beween each coat just to flash off.

[tony.barnett]

Reply from Jerry -

It's tricky. Used to be easy but when they started banning various chemicals you finish up with all kinds of concoctions, some of which play merry hell with decals.

Humbrol is available in spray cans. It will probably work, as it is designed to work on model aircraft and suchlike that use a lot of decals so it is unlikely to affect the decals on your bike.

However, although I think the Humbrol is pretty inert, you may want to try it on a hidden bit of paintwork first to make sure there is no reaction to your paint/lacquer.