Stripping a crankshaft

[Steve.Smith]

I am in the process of dismantling my spare VG crankshaft and was wondering how do other people hold the flywheels? The big end nuts on my crank were not all that tight but had loctite applied. The big end bearing is in good condition but was smothered in thick grease. The small end bush is nominally to size but the contact surface is quite small as you can see where the adjustable reamer has been biting when being forced through. It goes without saying that the rod is twisted and bent. I am not too worried about correcting the issues but more concerned about holding the crank in alignment and tightening the nuts.
Thanks, Steve

[Roger.Baker]

I put it on a workmate with the axle in the slot, then put a long tyre lever over the bottom flywheel with the ends clamped to the workmate with g-cramps. if you put it towards one end you can hold the workmate with your hip as you heave on the spanner.
Roger

[charvey]

Splitting the crank needs about 6 nuts and bolts the bolts just fit between flywheels work the nuts up the bolts and the flywheels should just come apart.
If there is locktight warm up nut with a blowtorch and that will help to get over the problem it did with me.
To refit the flywheels bolt up fairly tight don't go mad fit into crankcase's fit two or three nut's and bolt's in the crankcases loose, turn flywheels and see if the crankcases move use a soft drift just to tap flywheels one way or other till the cases don't move and the flywheels are correct take apart cases tighten crank up and recheck should be ok Clive.

[Steve.Smith]

Thanks all for your suggestions. It will be a while before I rebuild the crank as I am waiting for a new small end bush although I have now straightened the con rod. I was surprised that it took very little force to correct the twist and bend. I made up a pair of mandrels and checked the rod using a pair of machinists parallels and a surface plate. Hopefully the rebuild will go as smoothly!

[SEDoan]

I made a jig to hold the crank assembly. It makes it much easier to assemble.

Top picture shows the pin that fits in a pocket in the flywheels opposite the crank pin. The pin is welded onto a nail so I can hold it in place while positioning the crank. The pin rests into a notch cut into the central rib of the jig.
Lower picture shows angle stock welded to the central rib to keep the flywheel from climbing out of the jig.
Torque wrench broke so now I stand on a bathroom scale and do some simple math to determine the torque.
Let me know if you want more pictures.

[Roger Gwynn]

This method was shown to me many years ago, works well. Note the vice is not clamped to the rod, just closed up close to it.

[Steve.Smith]

Many thanks to all who have replied. How come that the simplest/most obvious is the hardest to see!
Now waiting for the club singles spares to come on line again.
Steve