Re-toothing 1956-on rear wheel sprocket
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Re-toothing 1956-on rear wheel sprocket
Anyone know anywhere/one that does this sort of thing? Can it be done?
Rod
Rod
- brenton.roy
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Hi Rod, yes it can certainly be done. It's called rebanding.
Who could do it would depend on where you live?
If you were in SA, I'd get it done here. You may have a similar business near where you are. http://completedrives.com.au/
Brenton
Who could do it would depend on where you live?
If you were in SA, I'd get it done here. You may have a similar business near where you are. http://completedrives.com.au/
Brenton
'51,'56 Squares, '48 VH, '27 Model C, R67/2, Mk IV Le Mans, '06 Super Duke and Ariel projects.
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I had a sprocket re-toothed a year ago by these people
Phil Hemming (Managing Director)
Stenor Engineering Ltd
Stenor Merlin Fire Hose Repair Equipment & Special Sprocket Services
Address:
Unit 3, Paytoe Lane Industrial Estate
Leintwardine
Craven Arms
Shropshire
United Kingdom
SY7 0NB
Tel. +44(0)1547 540326 Monday to Friday 9am to 4.30pm
Fax. +44(0)870 6221651
Phil Hemming (Managing Director)
Stenor Engineering Ltd
Stenor Merlin Fire Hose Repair Equipment & Special Sprocket Services
Address:
Unit 3, Paytoe Lane Industrial Estate
Leintwardine
Craven Arms
Shropshire
United Kingdom
SY7 0NB
Tel. +44(0)1547 540326 Monday to Friday 9am to 4.30pm
Fax. +44(0)870 6221651
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- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Hello Roderick, This can be done.
The best way -in my view- would be to machine the old sprocket down and incorporation a flange on it so you can mount a sprocket ring from a earlier type hub.
From then on you can always change sprockets, welding a new sprocket on is also possible but will have you be presented with the same thing in a few years time.
Depending on your mileage.
What you can do to make life easier for whoever you get to do the lathe work: first angle grind the old teeth from the old sprocket.
Turning down these old teeth on a lathe is very bad for the headstock bearings, better to grind them of before.
It is not so very important to grind the old sprocket very precise, just make sure that the teeth are gone!
Somewhere in my spares loft I have a sprocket like that, if I can locate it I'll make some pictures so you can get the idea .
Succes!
Vincent
The best way -in my view- would be to machine the old sprocket down and incorporation a flange on it so you can mount a sprocket ring from a earlier type hub.
From then on you can always change sprockets, welding a new sprocket on is also possible but will have you be presented with the same thing in a few years time.
Depending on your mileage.
What you can do to make life easier for whoever you get to do the lathe work: first angle grind the old teeth from the old sprocket.
Turning down these old teeth on a lathe is very bad for the headstock bearings, better to grind them of before.
It is not so very important to grind the old sprocket very precise, just make sure that the teeth are gone!
Somewhere in my spares loft I have a sprocket like that, if I can locate it I'll make some pictures so you can get the idea .
Succes!
Vincent
I used Vincent's suggested method of machining a flange on the body of the old sprocket mating with a flange on the new ring of teeth with my Douglas 3 years ago. If you put a parting tool into the side of the sprocket just at the root of the teeth, [rather than trying to machine the edge] you can machine the old teeth off as a ring, leaving the biggest possible initial diameter to play with when forming the flange on the old sprocket. Very sucessfull. Silas.
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The difficulty is getting the new part to run true. I suggest having a step turned on both pieces and forming a vee to allow silver solder to be used all round the edge each side. The strength is not difficult to achieve, infact some Douglas sprockets were fixed with soft solder. If you do a continuous weld around each side it is likely there would be some resultant distortion (Runout) occurr, and putting about 8 "tacks" each side is strong enough but unless done very carefully doesn't look good. Nev
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: Re-toothing 1956-on rear wheel sprocket
A few pictures that show the FWH sprocket with a detachable sprocket ring.
To get the sprocket run true to the gearbox sprocket you have to turn down a portion of the surface where the (old) inner part of the FWH sprocket meets the alloy hub.
Otherwise there is not enough material on the rim for making the flange
Perhaps you have to compare the one you have with this one on the pics, you will see.
Dimensions you have to figure out yourself! I forgot....
(The black paint on the sprocket is there because it's an old one that I use to cover parts that dont need powder coating on iron hubs.)
Vincent
To get the sprocket run true to the gearbox sprocket you have to turn down a portion of the surface where the (old) inner part of the FWH sprocket meets the alloy hub.
Otherwise there is not enough material on the rim for making the flange
Perhaps you have to compare the one you have with this one on the pics, you will see.
Dimensions you have to figure out yourself! I forgot....
(The black paint on the sprocket is there because it's an old one that I use to cover parts that dont need powder coating on iron hubs.)
Vincent
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