Calculating Balance Factors a simple example
Posted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 11:33 am
Hi All,
Being new to the forum I wasn't sure if this sort of post was appropriate as many of the more experienced members would consider this a little too basic.
As I was calculating my VCH crankshaft balance factor I thought I would share the method I use with a few bibs and bobs around the shed a my good wife's kitchen scales.
The general principle is shown below with a few photographs illustrating the process. (The formula below I entered into a spreadsheet I set up so I could model different piston weights I did it this way as different gudgeon pins can be used to reduce weight with oversize pistons)
Example is with my new 485 gm 12.5 : 1 Piston
Calculating Static Balance Factor
Symbol Description Weight grams
WP Weight Piston = 485
WC Weight Conrod = 207
WG Weight Gudgeon + Circlips=113
BW Balance Weight =278
TRM Total Reciprocating Mass = WP+WC+WG= 805
BF Balance Factor = (WC+BW)/TRMx100= 60.25
I had previously balanced my crank at 67% but with a lighter piston, if I use this new piston I will need to mill out some of the lower skirt area to lighten it a little if I want to maintain 67% (Phil Irvings magic number)
Weigh Conrod (Note from photo conrod is parallel to the scale height.= WC
Gudgeon Pin and Circlips =WG
Weight Piston= WP
Set up crank on two saw horses that have a few angle bits screwed to them. (make sure the whole contraption is level side to side and back to front so the crank doesn't go walkabout.)
Keep hanging weights to a wire hook suspended from the little end bush until the crank will stay in any position without moving. ( if the bigend is going to the top there is not enough weight if it going to the bottom there is too much weight.
Weigh back the wire with its bit and pieces and record at Balance weight = BW
Then apply the above formulae, I will not cover drilling and or adding weights as from what I understand 57-67% values have been measured on any number of Ariel cranks and I would not start drilling holes willy nilly without understanding exactly where they need to go and how deep or how added weights will be retained.
I hope some find this useful.
Being new to the forum I wasn't sure if this sort of post was appropriate as many of the more experienced members would consider this a little too basic.
As I was calculating my VCH crankshaft balance factor I thought I would share the method I use with a few bibs and bobs around the shed a my good wife's kitchen scales.
The general principle is shown below with a few photographs illustrating the process. (The formula below I entered into a spreadsheet I set up so I could model different piston weights I did it this way as different gudgeon pins can be used to reduce weight with oversize pistons)
Example is with my new 485 gm 12.5 : 1 Piston
Calculating Static Balance Factor
Symbol Description Weight grams
WP Weight Piston = 485
WC Weight Conrod = 207
WG Weight Gudgeon + Circlips=113
BW Balance Weight =278
TRM Total Reciprocating Mass = WP+WC+WG= 805
BF Balance Factor = (WC+BW)/TRMx100= 60.25
I had previously balanced my crank at 67% but with a lighter piston, if I use this new piston I will need to mill out some of the lower skirt area to lighten it a little if I want to maintain 67% (Phil Irvings magic number)
Weigh Conrod (Note from photo conrod is parallel to the scale height.= WC
Gudgeon Pin and Circlips =WG
Weight Piston= WP
Set up crank on two saw horses that have a few angle bits screwed to them. (make sure the whole contraption is level side to side and back to front so the crank doesn't go walkabout.)
Keep hanging weights to a wire hook suspended from the little end bush until the crank will stay in any position without moving. ( if the bigend is going to the top there is not enough weight if it going to the bottom there is too much weight.
Weigh back the wire with its bit and pieces and record at Balance weight = BW
Then apply the above formulae, I will not cover drilling and or adding weights as from what I understand 57-67% values have been measured on any number of Ariel cranks and I would not start drilling holes willy nilly without understanding exactly where they need to go and how deep or how added weights will be retained.
I hope some find this useful.