No lugs on vh rigid,, has anyone welded new ones on

[Rick Hughes]

My bike has it's reg number now ,the engine now seems ok, iv managed to get a decompressor on it, I'm now itching to ride it on the road for the first time,,
The side stand doesn't seem to hold good and iv even dropped it over twice whilst kicking it over as it moves very easily, luckily I didn't have the fuel tank on ..
my problem is the lugs for the main stand have been removed by a previous owner Iv made a template of some lugs and I was going to make some steel ones and weld them on and buy a stand . My buddy who gives me advice tells me there is a chance of warping the frame even though I'd make a rear wheel axle mock up to bolt it steady I'm wondering if anyone has done this procedure before
it really annoys me, I could make the side stand tighter and a tiny bit shorter to make it more steady. But I'd prefer to have the main stand for several other reasons apart from the sturdiness, it's better for maintenance and the residual oil going into the sump on its side stand come become a future issue

[simon.holyfield]

I can't see that you would be in any danger of warping a frame tube by welding onto the rear frame lugs. I'd be much more concerned about what the lugs were made from and whether you could weld them without cracking...

I have a vested interest in this question since my W/NG frame lugs are very worn and my main stand rests up inside the mudguard!

[Simon.Gardiner]

Pretty certain you wouldn't warp the frame - but have a thorough read of David Anderson's contribution at the end of page 1 here (Simes also!):
viewtopic.php?t=15720

David's done plenty of frame welding, including to the lugs.


SG

[nevhunter]

Nickel Bronze is fine for building up a surface OR attaching a new Part. Avoid welding near a Braised frame join. IF you burn the Braise (over heat it) you weaken the Metal. Welding on the side of a tube can cause some shrinkage at the Part welded. Peening the welded part as you go can avoid that to some extent, quick light sharp blows immediately or you will cave in the tube. The front lugs shouldn't affect the frame because you aren't near it and the rear ones are part of a larger casting. Just don't get it too Hot and melt the Original Braze. Where the rear stand abutts nickel bronze or Hi test rod welded will be OK. Square it off and make sure it aligns carefully Nev

[david.anderson]

Yes there is no problem welding the cast steel lugs with low hydrogen electrodes like E7018. Cast steel does have a higher carbon and silicon content than mild steel which increases the risk of cracking. However from the way the Ariel cast steel welds it is clearly a low carbon cast steel which is easy to weld. As a precaution I preheat with a torch to 120C in a draft free environment and do not do multiple welds unless there is cooling in between. Allow to cool under an insulating blanket.
David

[simon.holyfield]

I have TIG and MIG sets available for building up the rear stand stops - which, by the way, also need building up on the stand.

Aren't E7018 rods for SMAW /stick welding?

[Roger Gwynn]

I repaired mine by machining up an insert with a male thread and tapping the hole in the frame out to something suitable. After many thousands of miles they are worn out again, as is the stand. I am currently checking a prototype of a fabricated stand as castings have become rather too expensive.

[david.anderson]

Yes the rods I quoted are stick welder. My welding is either stick or oxy and occasionally MIG which I can borrow.
I have made the rear stands for all my plunger frame bikes. As I do not have the ability to press the stand C section to shape, I cut each piece to shape and weld up then grind back. It takes me a full day to fabricate a stand. To make one for personal use is not difficult, just time consuming.
David

[Roger Gwynn]

That is a lot of work but an excellent result. The fabricated ones that Draganfly are making are only practical because they are starting with laser cut legs, that are then bent to shape, stops fabricated and assembled, still a lot of work.
Prototype rigid stand that I have been checking, it is missing a kink in the right leg and one of the stops is out by 1/8". When finished the edges will be radiused to make them look more authentic.