Bodges we have found on our bikes.
Posted: Sun Oct 11, 2026 5:00 am
I thought I might start a thread on various bodges that we have found on our Ariels. Please post bodges that you have found. If your experience is anything like mine this thread could go on a long time.
A few years back I heard of a running 1951 plunger frame VH that was for sale only 50km away. As I was in the process of moving I had my son in law do the deal and collect and store the bike for me and deliver it to me about a year ago. While I knew the bike was rough, it was fitted with a post 56 VH head and cylinder which was my reason for the purchase. My son used them to convert his NH to VH
I have just started the strip, and repair before rebuild.
There were no stands for the bike. The previous owner used to lean it against a post or wall.
While there was no rear stand, the brackets to attach the stand to the frame were also missing. The sleeve nut on the bottom of the suspension normally holds the 3/8” thick stand bracket in place. Without the bracket the central bolt is too long so the bottom sleeve nut was tightened until it bottomed out on the bolt and the final result was that the suspension guide tube was never tight in place and the suspension caps stood up about 3/16” higher than they should, and the suspension guide tube could obviously move up and down. I fabricated new rear stand and stand brackets See the different lengths between the front mudguard stays. As one is too long just bore a hole through the mudguard above the fixing tab and bend the tab out of the way. The mudguard centre stays have been cut and then a piece has been welded back on. But they are of course still shorter than original. Front wheel stand fixing bolts. A Whitworth spanner did not fit. Yes the prior owner screwed in a pair of unf bolts. 1/2" unf spanner. The previous owner had the rear wheel lock up with the downward pointing brake drum arm. So make an extended upward pointing brake arm and don’t worry about the return spring that should be fitted to that arm. The weight of the footbrake pedal alone has the rear brake permanently applied even though lightly. I will bet the drum ran very hot if ridden other than round the block. The brake rod is also just in contact with the rear wheel adjuster bolt so don’t try and bring the rear wheel forward after fitting a new chain.
Both front and rear brake drums were full of grease which was doing a good job of lubricating the linings. So they will have to be replaced. David
A few years back I heard of a running 1951 plunger frame VH that was for sale only 50km away. As I was in the process of moving I had my son in law do the deal and collect and store the bike for me and deliver it to me about a year ago. While I knew the bike was rough, it was fitted with a post 56 VH head and cylinder which was my reason for the purchase. My son used them to convert his NH to VH
I have just started the strip, and repair before rebuild.
There were no stands for the bike. The previous owner used to lean it against a post or wall.
While there was no rear stand, the brackets to attach the stand to the frame were also missing. The sleeve nut on the bottom of the suspension normally holds the 3/8” thick stand bracket in place. Without the bracket the central bolt is too long so the bottom sleeve nut was tightened until it bottomed out on the bolt and the final result was that the suspension guide tube was never tight in place and the suspension caps stood up about 3/16” higher than they should, and the suspension guide tube could obviously move up and down. I fabricated new rear stand and stand brackets See the different lengths between the front mudguard stays. As one is too long just bore a hole through the mudguard above the fixing tab and bend the tab out of the way. The mudguard centre stays have been cut and then a piece has been welded back on. But they are of course still shorter than original. Front wheel stand fixing bolts. A Whitworth spanner did not fit. Yes the prior owner screwed in a pair of unf bolts. 1/2" unf spanner. The previous owner had the rear wheel lock up with the downward pointing brake drum arm. So make an extended upward pointing brake arm and don’t worry about the return spring that should be fitted to that arm. The weight of the footbrake pedal alone has the rear brake permanently applied even though lightly. I will bet the drum ran very hot if ridden other than round the block. The brake rod is also just in contact with the rear wheel adjuster bolt so don’t try and bring the rear wheel forward after fitting a new chain.
Both front and rear brake drums were full of grease which was doing a good job of lubricating the linings. So they will have to be replaced. David