1946 VH 500 Restoration

[SEDoan]

It looks like there is an error at the bottom and on the right side of your diagram where it says 17.67g from each flywheel half.

If the drilling is at the rim and the crankpin is 1/2 way between the rim and the mainshaft then the lever arm is twice as long and only 1/2 the weight needs to be removed. So if your calculation calls for 34 more grams in the pan you only need to remove 17 grams total from the rim. In other words remove 8.5 grams from each half. A quick calculation suggests that a single 5/16" hole about 3/4" deep will remove about 8 grams. (But please check my math! )

[KenS]

It looks like there is an error at the bottom and on the right side of your diagram where it says 17.67g from each flywheel half.

If the drilling is at the rim and the crankpin is 1/2 way between the rim and the mainshaft then the lever arm is twice as long and only 1/2 the weight needs to be removed. So if your calculation calls for 34 more grams in the pan you only need to remove 17 grams total from the rim. In other words remove 8.5 grams from each half. A quick calculation suggests that a single 5/16" hole about 3/4" deep will remove about 8 grams. (But please check my math! )

Thanks for catching that Shawn.

[KenS]

Thanks to Shawn, following his recommendation to drill the balance holes on the inside outer ridged of each flywheel half, my balancing task was simple and worked out perfectly. Attached is an updated illustration and theory of this balancing project using the desired Balance Factor weight hanging from the conrod and drilling the 5 x 3/16" holes, .065" deep until the balance was perfect.
By using the straight edge method with the flywheel assembled in Vee Blocks, I was able to reduce the Total Indicated Runout to .001", a far cry from the .019" it was to begin with!

[Simon.Gardiner]

Just having the flywheels running true will reduce the vibration (in my experience it'll smooth it out quite markedly!)

SG

[KenS]

With downtime while waiting on spares, I spent 5 hours with a die grinder and double-edge rotary deburring tools to remove and rounding off all of the casting sharp edges, then smoothed out both sides of the flywheel halves. Now there is definitely fewer spots where oil would collect and be a bit more aerodynamic!

[KenS]

UPDATE: It's been a few months, during which I reassembled the engine post balancing then several short rides, each time experiencing minor issues. Heat seizing under WOT over 55 mph, what I thought was a slipping clutch only to discover it was the shock absorber, what I assumed was a bad Magneto but it was a bad HT lead, a pin hole leak in my tank under the RH knee pad, the SAE 140 gearbox oil I used was leaking really badly that was solved by draining it and adding 600 ml of #00 Cotton Picker Spindle Grease, adjusting the carb needle to richen it up, especially while I am breaking-in the engine that now has all of 81 miles since boring it out with .007" clearance for the JP piston.

It runs rather well for an old girl!

To check the Air-Fuel Ratio, I zip tied my NTK meter to the handlebars, marked my twist grip with masking tape and marked 0-50%-100% on the tape. Using my chest-mounted GoPro 13 Black camera, I went for a ride to record various RPM/speeds, throttle position and timing. You can watch the video here: https://youtu.be/n6aMC7XXQ5E[/youtube]

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Very nice! I watched the video -thanks for that!- and just enjoyd the ride seeing that headlamp bump up and down!
I could not really make out what the readings were but thats o.k.
You are going to spend many happy miles on the VG. well done!

[Roger Gwynn]

I wonder where one can obtain Cotton Picker Spindle Grease in the UK.

[simon.holyfield]

I wonder where one can obtain Cotton Picker Spindle Grease in the UK.

Best import some before they slap a tariff on it!

[KenS]

I wonder where one can obtain Cotton Picker Spindle Grease in the UK.

Roger, you may try antique/classic Tractor spares vendors. I purchased mine here https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/produ ... -grease-00