Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 7:20 pm
I understand that beer is important, so next weekend a rally in Petten NH with the beer only 1 euro.Steven.Carter wrote: it was the beer talking.
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My 1950 VH
Page 5 of 12
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2014 8:09 pm
Happy days
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2014 9:25 am
Hi all,
I drained down the oil tank yesterday and then removed one of the screws to empty out as much oil as I could before removing the sump plate.
I put a jam jar under it which was nearly completely filled: whereas I'd expect there to be some oil this somewhat exceeded my expectations - definitely a problem I think!
I tried wiggling the return pipe to the sump and it seems to be pretty firmly held in place; clearly I didn't go too mad as I don't want to end up creating a leak here!
I also removed the pump and noticed that the area around the thread into which the RH fixing screw goes was raised; I think this might have caused an air leak between the pump face and the casing. Anyway, I've stripped the pump and all seems to be in order. I've also cleaned up the casing around that raised thread but am a bit concerned that the thread might have been pulled (screw over tightened?) and will look into it further this evening. Fingers crossed that there's not a problem here with the thread.
Keith
I drained down the oil tank yesterday and then removed one of the screws to empty out as much oil as I could before removing the sump plate.
I put a jam jar under it which was nearly completely filled: whereas I'd expect there to be some oil this somewhat exceeded my expectations - definitely a problem I think!
I tried wiggling the return pipe to the sump and it seems to be pretty firmly held in place; clearly I didn't go too mad as I don't want to end up creating a leak here!
I also removed the pump and noticed that the area around the thread into which the RH fixing screw goes was raised; I think this might have caused an air leak between the pump face and the casing. Anyway, I've stripped the pump and all seems to be in order. I've also cleaned up the casing around that raised thread but am a bit concerned that the thread might have been pulled (screw over tightened?) and will look into it further this evening. Fingers crossed that there's not a problem here with the thread.
Keith
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 2:01 pm
Hi,
I have succeeded in rectifying my wet-sumping issues (well pretty certain), so all is well again. In the end I replaced the pump with another since I think the original pump was too worn on the feed side. I did try cleaning and blasting through with air, but when I primed it with oil, compared with the feed side the return seemed pretty feeble.
The bike rides fine and although the back end bucks like a bronco (now I know why it's an iron horse) and the rear stand hammers away, the forks seem to do a pretty good job of keeping the front wheel on the ground. The roads around here where I live are a bit rustic (to put it politely) and even where the tarmac is fairly good they undulate all over the place - you can pick up a sort of resonance at certain speeds and the bike sort of wavers up and down!
The valve gear seems to clatter quite loudly but I imagine this is normal ( I adjusted the tappets so that they were up against the valve stem end caps but not as it where 'jammed' - there is just the slightest movement and never any loss of compression)? I shall be lifting the tank at 500 miles (270 so far) to check the head bolts and rocker box fixings and will also change the oil. I guess the tappet clearances could have increased due to bedding in, but am not sure whether or not it affects the noise level of the valve gear.
Acceleration is good, particularly in top gear - the engine doesn't seem to progress markedly more rapidly in lower gears (it does have side car gearing) but if I open up the throttle at anything above 30 in top I can be at or around 60 before I know it - it seems to have buckets full of power; sadly there are few places where I can really do this safely except the main roads which are speed limited and full of traffic.
I'd be interested to know how mike bike compares with others of its type and would welcome any observations people might have.
Keith
I have succeeded in rectifying my wet-sumping issues (well pretty certain), so all is well again. In the end I replaced the pump with another since I think the original pump was too worn on the feed side. I did try cleaning and blasting through with air, but when I primed it with oil, compared with the feed side the return seemed pretty feeble.
The bike rides fine and although the back end bucks like a bronco (now I know why it's an iron horse) and the rear stand hammers away, the forks seem to do a pretty good job of keeping the front wheel on the ground. The roads around here where I live are a bit rustic (to put it politely) and even where the tarmac is fairly good they undulate all over the place - you can pick up a sort of resonance at certain speeds and the bike sort of wavers up and down!
The valve gear seems to clatter quite loudly but I imagine this is normal ( I adjusted the tappets so that they were up against the valve stem end caps but not as it where 'jammed' - there is just the slightest movement and never any loss of compression)? I shall be lifting the tank at 500 miles (270 so far) to check the head bolts and rocker box fixings and will also change the oil. I guess the tappet clearances could have increased due to bedding in, but am not sure whether or not it affects the noise level of the valve gear.
Acceleration is good, particularly in top gear - the engine doesn't seem to progress markedly more rapidly in lower gears (it does have side car gearing) but if I open up the throttle at anything above 30 in top I can be at or around 60 before I know it - it seems to have buckets full of power; sadly there are few places where I can really do this safely except the main roads which are speed limited and full of traffic.
I'd be interested to know how mike bike compares with others of its type and would welcome any observations people might have.
Keith
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2014 2:31 pm
Hi Keith,
My VH clatters a bit too, even with re ground cam and follower pads. There's a lot of heavy stuff rattling around in there.
I think tyre pressure is more fiddly with a rigid frame. You could try 28psi for the rear as a starting point. I think the best point is the softest that doesn't affect handling. A little tyre bounce is ok (to me). It's protecting the bike from shocks as well.
I have different gearing to you, so can't comment on performance. If you are doing 60mph easily with sidecar gearing and aren't complaining about vibration, your crank balance must be ok! - although be careful if you are running in!
I expect your bike is very similar to mine. Light, easy to ride, and when it all comes together, just fast enough to get you in trouble on a windy road.
Brenton
My VH clatters a bit too, even with re ground cam and follower pads. There's a lot of heavy stuff rattling around in there.
I think tyre pressure is more fiddly with a rigid frame. You could try 28psi for the rear as a starting point. I think the best point is the softest that doesn't affect handling. A little tyre bounce is ok (to me). It's protecting the bike from shocks as well.
I have different gearing to you, so can't comment on performance. If you are doing 60mph easily with sidecar gearing and aren't complaining about vibration, your crank balance must be ok! - although be careful if you are running in!
I expect your bike is very similar to mine. Light, easy to ride, and when it all comes together, just fast enough to get you in trouble on a windy road.
Brenton
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 2:02 pm
Hi Brenton,
The good news is that the barrel and big end have already seen service. The big end is o.k. and the barrel still has some life left in it - all bearings were replaced as were cam and followers - so should be ok to run it up a bit now.
The fly wheel is steel (not cast iron).
It is interesting to read the Motor Cycle road test for a 1950 VH in which they maintain that :
a) The valve gear is quiet and the only noise was piston slap which didn't go away even when the engine hard warmed up and
b) No vibration from the engine except on the over-run from 80 down to 60 was it?
Hmmmm!
Doesn't quite sound like my bike, but then perhaps there is some wear on the rocker spindles - not that I think that this accounts for the 'clatter'. Vibrations not too bad though, but then I've never been flat out; I remember taking an NH down a dual carriageway many years ago and not only did my feet go numb but I had to keep catching the petrol cap every time the locking mech. came unscrewed!!!
Keith
The good news is that the barrel and big end have already seen service. The big end is o.k. and the barrel still has some life left in it - all bearings were replaced as were cam and followers - so should be ok to run it up a bit now.
The fly wheel is steel (not cast iron).
It is interesting to read the Motor Cycle road test for a 1950 VH in which they maintain that :
a) The valve gear is quiet and the only noise was piston slap which didn't go away even when the engine hard warmed up and
b) No vibration from the engine except on the over-run from 80 down to 60 was it?
Hmmmm!
Doesn't quite sound like my bike, but then perhaps there is some wear on the rocker spindles - not that I think that this accounts for the 'clatter'. Vibrations not too bad though, but then I've never been flat out; I remember taking an NH down a dual carriageway many years ago and not only did my feet go numb but I had to keep catching the petrol cap every time the locking mech. came unscrewed!!!
Keith
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Mon Jul 07, 2014 2:25 pm
That sounds great Keith.
I had forgotten you said that the barrel was already run in.
Maybe 1950 expectations were a bit different?
I had forgotten you said that the barrel was already run in.
Maybe 1950 expectations were a bit different?
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 9:55 am
Hi Brenton,
Who knows - perhaps the article was written with the behaviour of contemporary machines in mind and compared against these?
The engines didn't change and I would normally expect ally engines to be noisier when compared to iron, but this is iron (and noisy).
On another subject, I am being plagued by having the exhaust lifter unscrew itself; I only find out when I can't stop the engine at the end of a run. It has happened three times so far.
Last night I tightened it up with the engine hot - but obviously steel into aluminium - I don't want to over do it.
Has anyone had similar problems or am I just being too gentle?
Keith
Who knows - perhaps the article was written with the behaviour of contemporary machines in mind and compared against these?
The engines didn't change and I would normally expect ally engines to be noisier when compared to iron, but this is iron (and noisy).
On another subject, I am being plagued by having the exhaust lifter unscrew itself; I only find out when I can't stop the engine at the end of a run. It has happened three times so far.
Last night I tightened it up with the engine hot - but obviously steel into aluminium - I don't want to over do it.
Has anyone had similar problems or am I just being too gentle?
Keith
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 10:05 am
Hi Keith,
Is it possible that the top end noise and the valve lifter assembly coming loose are connected?
I have the opposite problem with mine (getting it apart..).
Is it possible that the top end noise and the valve lifter assembly coming loose are connected?
I have the opposite problem with mine (getting it apart..).
Re: My 1950 VH
Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2014 11:18 am
Keith
If the valve lifter assembly is coming lose in the rockerbox it is probable that it is not adjusted correctly or is not disengaging properly due to an inadequate return spring. Make sure that it is properly adjusted or it may put excess load on the cam and follower resulting in rapid wear of both cam and follower. When you start the bike have a look at the valve lifter assembly. If the arm is jumping around then you have a problem. I adjust mine to be well clear so that the valve lifter just engages as the lever is about to touch the handlebars. Also have a look through the inspection cap and watch the valve open and close as the engine is turned over and see that the eccentric pin is not fouling the rocker tab that it engages at any point. The pin is short and can sometimes catch the side of the tab where clearances are at outer limits. As the whole assembly unscrews then it is certain that the eccentric pin will catch the side of the rocker tab, and catch underneath it. When that happens is when the cam is loaded and rapid wear occurrs.
David
If the valve lifter assembly is coming lose in the rockerbox it is probable that it is not adjusted correctly or is not disengaging properly due to an inadequate return spring. Make sure that it is properly adjusted or it may put excess load on the cam and follower resulting in rapid wear of both cam and follower. When you start the bike have a look at the valve lifter assembly. If the arm is jumping around then you have a problem. I adjust mine to be well clear so that the valve lifter just engages as the lever is about to touch the handlebars. Also have a look through the inspection cap and watch the valve open and close as the engine is turned over and see that the eccentric pin is not fouling the rocker tab that it engages at any point. The pin is short and can sometimes catch the side of the tab where clearances are at outer limits. As the whole assembly unscrews then it is certain that the eccentric pin will catch the side of the rocker tab, and catch underneath it. When that happens is when the cam is loaded and rapid wear occurrs.
David