Duncan,
Further to my previous reply on your thread Duncan, It would be a good idea to check the primary chain adjustment. If you take the spark plugs out on your Huntmaster this will make it easier to operate the kickstart and slowly rotate the chain so, with your finger in the primary chaincase oil filler hole, you can carefully check its adjustment. The chain should not be under tension at all and at its tightest spot should have roughly 1/2" up and down movement. If you do have to adjust it remember that moving the gearbox to do this will also affect the rear chain adjustment so check this as well.
Finally, unless your clutch chainwheel has been modified with the oil control disc kit (covered on here by another or maybe several threads) do not fill the primary chaincase up to the level plug with oil otherwise most of it will be thrown out of the gearbox mainshaft hole in the rear of the case assembly. Using a small torch (with the aid of a small mirror possibly) or home made dipstick (bit of stiff wire shaped to fit through the filler hole) check to see that the level is just kissing the lower run of the primary chain. You can also do this by first draining what oil is in there and then slowly re-filling the primary chaincase with oil then rotating the chain via the kickstart to see at which point the chain is beginning to pick up the oil and that should be just enough to keep the chain lubricated and the garage floor dry. I use Morris Classic SAE40 in everything on my NH, forks, engine, gearbox and chaincase.
All the best, enjoy riding it.
Keith.
FH Clutch/Cable fail
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Hi, unless I've missed something here there's another adjustment that hasn't been mentioned. I realise the loose nut is probably causing your problem however you mention changing the cable due to lack of adjustment.
Just forward of the kick start is a plate with two screws holding it on. This adjusts the clutch arm inside the gear box. When I set mine up I slackened the adjusters on the clutch cable, removed the filler plug and adjusted this until there was just a slight amount of play between the fork arm and the push rod. Adjustment is made by taking the two screws out and turning the assembly which has a hexagon recess to locate on the adjusting nut. I ended up playing around with the nut position in the housing. Once this is correct the cable free play can be adjusted with the external adjusters.
I was getting oil on my clutch plates via. the push rod, every time I put the bike on the side stand gear oil would run down the push rod and fling onto the plates. One solution is don't use the side stand. I carefully turned two grooves in the push rod a couple of inches from the clutch end. These were deep enough to take two O rings so they would touch enough to stop oil creeping past, but not hold the push rod onto the clutch. I used plenty of grease between and around the two O rings to keep them lubricated. I use the side stand all the time and haven't had an issue since doing the job.
Colin
Just forward of the kick start is a plate with two screws holding it on. This adjusts the clutch arm inside the gear box. When I set mine up I slackened the adjusters on the clutch cable, removed the filler plug and adjusted this until there was just a slight amount of play between the fork arm and the push rod. Adjustment is made by taking the two screws out and turning the assembly which has a hexagon recess to locate on the adjusting nut. I ended up playing around with the nut position in the housing. Once this is correct the cable free play can be adjusted with the external adjusters.
I was getting oil on my clutch plates via. the push rod, every time I put the bike on the side stand gear oil would run down the push rod and fling onto the plates. One solution is don't use the side stand. I carefully turned two grooves in the push rod a couple of inches from the clutch end. These were deep enough to take two O rings so they would touch enough to stop oil creeping past, but not hold the push rod onto the clutch. I used plenty of grease between and around the two O rings to keep them lubricated. I use the side stand all the time and haven't had an issue since doing the job.
Colin
'53 Bantam, '55 Huntmaster, '61 Bantam, '79 GS 850, 2004 Burgman 650, 2002 Burgman 400
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Re:
Yes Colin it was in the long reply I gave earlier !keith.mettam wrote: Adjustment-wise, I would slacken the handlebar cable adjuster right off and disconnect the cable at the gearbox end, assemble your clutch then adjust the gearbox clutch operating lever so you have roughly 3/16" to 1/4" free movement at the tip of the lever. This is done by undoing the the little fitting held on the outer cover of the GB gearbox by two screws, adjusting the hex nut (in increases free play and out reduces it, if my memory is correct). Note you will have to fix the little housing that covers this adjuster nut back each time to check the play properly. Re-fit the clutch cable and adjust the cable to have about an 1/8" to 3/16" at the handlebar lever.
Regards,
Keith.
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