Clutch Lever still feels heavy.

[garycullen]

Thanks Vincent,
I have the small hexagon headed adjuster between the legs of the gearbox operating lever as per your arrowed picture.
But I will adjust out a bit so it doesn't touch the case.
I have a clutch push rod with hardened end and no ball, supplied by Drags.

My Clutch Adjuster on the top of the gearbox has a shelf just inside the threaded end.
The Hexagon end had no shelf and the cable outer was jammed in, so no step for the cable outer ferrule to push against.
If you shine a light up your threaded end on you may see what I mean.
My cable goes down the head stock and across the main chain case then under the battery tray and through a hole ( probably purposefully made by Ariel ) in the rear engine plate into the adjuster.
It is on a slight angle but not as acute as yours seems to be.
Cheers
Gary

[garycullen]

Vincent, I have a spare gearbox adjuster so I did some macro photography (attempt) on my iPhone SE!!!
It is same as the one on my bike.
Ignore the non parallel cable cut, but you can see the shelf or step just inside the threaded end. this is where I reason the cable ferrule should push against, hence why the way I have it installed on the bike.
Cheers
Gary

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Thanks for the pics, possibly I have another type of adjuster.
I think I used mine because the thread was correct. But that does not mean it's a Burman item!

I wrote that the small hexagon bolt is hollow, not so.
The ball sits inside the plunger, I think it is important that a ball is there to get all things moving freely.
If you engage the clutch the pushrod should be free to turn.
I think I also have a ball on the other end but maybe that's not as it should be -not sure-

[simon.holyfield]

As far as I know, there's no ball at the clutch end or along the pushrod. There's a ball in the plunger though, and whilst the clutch (if appropriately adjusted) will work without it, it doesn't feel too good.

[garycullen]

Mmmm, I can easily swap out the hardened end push rod for a rod and ball to try so I will do that next day or so and report back.
Vincent and Simon, I appreciate the advice and help received, The club members are so helpful and there is always something to learn.
Cheers
Gary

[simon.holyfield]

... the club members are so helpful and there is always something to learn.
Cheers
Gary

Absolutely.

By the way, my SQ4 has exactly the same clutch adjuster as yours, with the cable abutment in the non-hex end. Hex end goes outboard where it is more accessible.

[Knud.Degnbol]

I have seen 2 different types of springs. The old ones were wound by 1,8 mm thread. The new ones from 2 mm.

[paul.jameson]

May I be allowed to make some observations?

The springs currently available from AOMCC Gearbox Spares are for cork plates and are made to a pattern from my Healey, which, built in 1975, had new old stock clutch parts which had seen only 200 miles use before the fire which destroyed the bike. A second spring from Allan Simpson confirmed the dimensions. These springs work well and are lighter than those needed for a fabric clutch.

Vincent - I think your cable adjuster is from a GB gearbox. These have the same thread but the shoulder for the cable outer has to be in the hex end because you can't access the inner end of the adjuster in the GB box.

Gary - It follows from the above that you have the correct adjuster and it is now the correct way round. I think some of your problem comes from your handlebar lever where the pivot to nipple distance is too great. Perhaps someone has fallen off the bike and broken the original lever so has replaced it with an incompatible one which was to hand. The cable nipple centre should align with the centre of the cable as it goes out through the stop. Don't overtighten the pivot bolt. What is the situation at the gearbox end? Is your adjuster which goes between the arms of the gearbox clutch lever a tight fit in the gearbox outer cover? If so, make sure you lubricate the outside of the adjuster so that you minimise friction between it and the outer casing. From the photos, it seems that you do have the two half moon shaped protrusions on the clutch operating arm which bear onto the adjuster. I have known these wear away completely. Check that both half moons contact the adjuster equally using a feeler blade. If you have an inaccuracy here (coupled with a good fitting adjuster) you will be pushing the adjuster over to one side as it tries to slide into the gearbox end cover. You do need a ball at this end of the clutch push rod particularly if the adjuster is not a good fit in the gearbox end cover. At some stage, Burman introduced a ball at the clutch end of the pushrod. Without research, I can't remember when, but you won't find it's presence or otherwise makes any difference to how heavy the clutch operation is.

I have used nylon lined clutch cables for some time, perhaps 10 years or so. The advice given is to lubricate them only with duck oil and nothing else. In desperation, about 9 years ago, I lubricated one with ordinary engine oil. The result was a massive improvement in the lightness of operation so I have subsequently lubricated all my other cables with engine oil. I have had no problems since. Clearly, Teflon lined cable outers may be different, but the Healey uses Teflon lined fork bushes and the fork damping medium is engine oil. So I would err on the side of lubrication using engine oil.

For cable routing, fit the cable with nothing to hold it in place along its length, then attach it to the bike as closely to its natural line as possible. Making your own cables is by far the best approach because you can make them to a suitable length. It doesn't matter to you if you make the cable a little bit longer because all you have is less waste at the end of the job. But to someone making hundreds of cables, shortening the cable by an inch makes a substantial saving on raw materials. As a result, almost all cables bought ready made are just that bit too short to operate smoothly.

[garycullen]

Paul, yes I think my handle bar levers are slightly too large, measured as 1” pivot to nipple centre. The pics I have posted show some overhang.
Both clutch and front brake levers are the same, bought as a set, second hand off eBay 8 years ago.
I will try and find smaller levers parts.
On the gearbox: all the parts are new from Drags, operating lever, centre adjuster, hardened end push rod, no ball.
When putting it together I had to fettle the spread of the legs so the adjuster was clear for the full movement.
The adjuster went into the outer case with light finger pressure.
Gary

[john.bebb]

Hi folks; - here's a lateral suggestion - perhaps try reverse levers - those that pivot at the outer end of the handlebars... they went out of fashion yonks ago but the leverage advantage gained by having your stronger fingers further away from the pivot is considerable.
Such will probably be a pain to source & an even bigger pain to fit & cable route.
Alternatively use your left hand to drink more beer - regular use will strengthen your grip...
Cheers