FH Clutch/Cable fail

[Mark.Ogden]

Not normal no....I suspect a leak from the other side somewhere.....That said, and to save a great deal of bother, it could have possibly accumlated over time and thus manageable going forward - once cleaned up - and therefore no need to disassemble the clutch completely. However, you will need to clean up all the plates, as doubless oil has found its way there too and that could well be a possible cause of the sticking plates and thus difficult dis-engagement. Easy enough with just the springs removed....You will need the special tool - or a grooved large driver, and new clutch springs on re-assembly....2 quid each from Draganfly. You need to ensure that on re-assembly the pressure plate disengages evenly all around its circumference - whilst at the same time not experiencing clutch slip. Bit if trial and error, but by no means difficult. Whilst there, check to see if the operating plunger through the plates works OK and the operating arm is free to travel, and that the presure plate is free of crud and is square. Check all adjustments at the cable on reassembly. Should be a smidgen of slack at the operating lever before the pressure plate starts to move outwards.

Personally after having done all that, I would suck it and see. If it proves troublesome again in short order - with further accumulation of oil at the base, then maybe a complete strip and fixing the leak path will be required.

[duncan.galloway]

Clutch nut was loose and looks a bit stripped. There was no lock washer. Will order both from Drags. Plates are oily.
How tight must the clutch nut be done up when I reassemble? Many thanks, Duncan

[brenton.roy]

Hi Duncan,
I just make it tight with a socket. Nothing special.
The lock washer is a tab washer which also fits over one of the clutch studs. Just bend one or two tabs to the flats of the nut.
I assume you have the clutch tool? If not, you'll need to order an extra steel plate from Drags to make one.

[duncan.galloway]

Did you mean the screwdriver for the clutch springs nuts (I have this) or something else?
Many thanks, Duncan

[Mark.Ogden]

No - not the clutch spring tool. There is a tool which holds the shaft whilst you tighten the nut. Alternatively stick it in top gear and apply the rear brake whilst tightening. It may or may not be sufficient, but that said, the nut does need to be as tight as you dare.

[duncan.galloway]

Ordered it. Thank you. D

[duncan.galloway]

Hi, almost ready to begin. I have the spragging tool, new springs, nut and lock washer. Questions if I may:
1. in the photo above, the brass thrust washer has two internal tabs. It does not seem to locate properly now with too much play. Does it just get forced back or should I replace?
2. Best medium for cleaning oil / grease off the clutch plates? Do I have to keep them in the same order?
3. Should I remove the clutch cable, then fit the plates & nut and tighten, then refit the cable?
thanks, Duncan

[duncan.galloway]

3394-36 on the Drags diagram is not the same part as fitted in the photo. Should I keep or replace it / them?
Duncan

[keith.mettam]

3394-36 is a plain thrust washer, Duncan, and fits on the mainshaft's clutch boss before the the bearing cage and needle rollers are installed along with the chain wheel. It has the same dimensions as the 'tab style' front thrust washer but without the tabs. I am not sure you need to replace your tabbed washer though. It should be central and fit up against the bearing's brass cage and not as shown in your pictures where it has become dislodged when you have dismantled your clutch. If it is a poor 'home- made' thrust washer then replace it with 3394-36.

Before assembling anything, I would remove and wash off the basket then clean each of the six basket to chainwheel retaining bolts and threads, apply a little 'Loctite' to each bolt and refit them (carefully-do not over-tighten !) not forgetting to bend the tab washers over to prevent them coming loose. Now carefully push the clutch basket back as far as it will go and also push the end of the central brass bearing cage inwards on the shaft boss. Fit the tabbed thrust washer, rotating it until the tabs both locate in the grooves where the larger diameter bearing surface of the boss starts. The washer can now be slid up flush against the bearing cage. The washer should sit properly on the mainshaft's clutch boss and look central, without much clearance between it and the boss. If you sparingly apply a bit of grease to it before fitting it in place this will help keep it there until you fit the clutch drum with lock washer and nut. With the gearbox in neutral, check the clutch drum freely rotates without binding.

I usually wash my clutch plates off in petrol, which always works fine for me, but auto brake de-greaser from somewhere like Halfords will do the trick if you are fussy. Adjustment-wise, I would slacken the handlebar cable adjuster right off and disconnect the cable at the gearbox end, assemble your clutch then adjust the gearbox clutch operating lever so you have roughly 3/16" to 1/4" free movement at the tip of the lever. This is done by undoing the the little fitting held on the outer cover of the GB gearbox by two screws, adjusting the hex nut (in increases free play and out reduces it, if my memory is correct). Note you will have to fix the little housing that covers this adjuster nut back each time to check the play properly. Re-fit the clutch cable and adjust the cable to have about an 1/8" to 3/16" at the handlebar lever.

With the chrome clutch dome still off and the bike in neutral, pull the clutch handlebar lever in and operate the kickstart whilst watching the spinning clutch pressure plate to see if it appears to run fairly parallel to the adjacent plate. If not, adjust the pressure of individual clutch springs bit by bit until you achieve the best result. You can also check that the pressure plate stays parallel when moving in to engage with the clutch so that it engages evenly. This is done by slowly releasing the clutch at the handlebar lever whilst operating the kickstart and watching the plate until the clutch begins to bite. Again adjust individual spring pressure to achieve the best result. Don't have any of the springs too loose or the clutch may slip, start with them quite tight and slowly slacken or tighten screws to give the best result. The clutch spring adjusters do come loose so it is wise to apply a smear of 'Loctite' to these threads as well.

Good luck with it,
Keith.

[duncan.galloway]

Keith,
Thanks very much for your very comprehensive response. Hopefully I can get through this at the weekend and have a working bike again. Regards, Duncan