New member 1941 Ariel W/NG

[nevhunter]

The exposed gears need pretty constant attention. It needs something that won't fling off and get on the brake shoes. Tacky chain Lube?. The enclosed one doesn't need much but I'd make sure there was some in it and no possibility of water. It's getting hard to get al those bits and they are expensive. Make sure the speedo doesn't seize up either, The grease can go hard and chew the end of the speedo cable off. Nev

[YourivdA]

The exposed gears need pretty constant attention. It needs something that won't fling off and get on the brake shoes. Tacky chain Lube?. The enclosed one doesn't need much but I'd make sure there was some in it and no possibility of water. It's getting hard to get al those bits and they are expensive. Make sure the speedo doesn't seize up either, The grease can go hard and chew the end of the speedo cable off. Nev

Thank you Nev, it's clear to me now. I'll look into it.

[YourivdA]

Had a great weekend. In the Netherlands we celebrated 80 years of liberation on may 5th. So after some work I took her out for a 'longer' ride. Close to my home town there is a memorial, a halifax bomber crashed into the river the Lek in 1943 (tail number BB 375 EQ-T). One of the actual engines of that plane is displayed in the monument. A nice spot for a picture.

I had to do some work before taking her out. I recieved some new tankrubbers from Austria and while fitting them I noticed both the grease nipples of the bottom yoke were hitting the tank on the maximum steering angle. At first I thought it was due to heavy wear, but after looking at the workplace manual I noticed the previous owner had put it in the wrong way around. So that was a fun job. Luckily I had some spare bearing balls.

The ride was about 25 miles, I have never been that far out. So it was really exciting. Although all seemed good, I noticed some stuttering at the end of my ride. As if the engine skipped a beat. Especially when I get heavy on the throttle, so lets say over 50%. I have to look into that.

Furthermore I noticed my rear stand is fitted with regular metric nuts and bolts, wich ofcourse come loose when using the stand. So I have to look into that as well. I also have the feeling the stand isn't original, both sides seem to be straight the one in my parts book seems the be bend on one side to make room for the exhaust.

[Simon.Gardiner]

It might be an original stand that someone has straightened, thinking that both sides should be the same.
If it is original the side forgings will be quite malleable and can be re-bent.

Glad you had a good day out!

SG

[Julian Murphy]

For the nuts/bolts that are coming loose you could:

1. Add thread lock (blue)

2. Replace the nuts with nyloc nuts.

[simon.holyfield]

Lovely looking W/NG.

The stand bolts are not ordinary bolts - they are stepped and screw into the frame, part number E1/58 or 5505-26, like this:

[YourivdA]

Thanks for all the replies guys! very helpfull!

I took the stand off this morning before work, I was curious. It seems to be original, it has a casting number, startin with E9, can't read the rest (maybe E9/699?). My partsbook only specifies the 5500-36 not the E9 number. So it might indeed be bent straight in the past. I'll try to bend it back a little, is that possible by just putting some heath in it?

One side of the frame still has the support for the stand, here they've put a metrich bolt through which was made flat wit a grinder. On the other side the support on the frame is gone, they mounted it with a piece of tube and some metric nuts and bolts on this side.

[Simon.Gardiner]

You might not even need heat, just some big levers!
(There doesn't seem to be a part number - which would probably be the number on the stand - given for the rigid frame stand, even though there is for the equivalent spring frame stand.)

SG

[simon.holyfield]

A word on E numbers - as far as I can tell, Ariel changed their approach to part numbering in the early 1930's. You can often find E numbers cross referencing the later style part numbers in the parts books.

[YourivdA]

Thanks Simon and Simon!

I have 3 parts books. I got the proper one from Draganfly, according to the contractnumber etc. And indeed a lot of parts are cross referenced. Just not the rearstand.

I'll try to bend it without heating, might save the paint.

This saturday I'll pick up a combined clutch/magneto lever. Found an AMAL set on the secondhand website in the Netherlands. I know it's not time correct, but my ariel is fitted with an AMAL exhaust lifter trigger. And besides that I now have a separate clutch lever and a separate magneto lever. The magneto lever is even a right hand side lever so it looks terrible. And to be honest, I kinda like the brass trigger lever.

I found different stories about the levers on an Ariel. I read that since '56 they've started to use the trigger lever for the exhaustlifter. But also a story about them putting these on late war. At least they will be both AMAL so that looks good on the new handlebar.

Oh and I orderd a piece of old cathedral flat glass for my headlight at a local window suplier. I love the outcome.