1930 LF
- paul.jameson
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Re: 1930 LF
Your linings look to be brand new old (asbestos) stock. So the contact area on the drum will be minimal which is why your brakes are useless. There are a number of ways to get the new linings so that they have a good contact area with the drum but all involve the removal of some lining material. Given that this contains asbestos, you might well prefer to have modern linings fitted and then persuade them to fit the drum properly. But the modern linings may not work as well as the asbestos ones, once bedded in.
Paul Jameson
35 LG (project), 37 RH500, 52 ex ISDT KHA, 54 KH(A), 75 Healey 1000/4.
Former Machine Registrar & Archivist, General Secretary and Single Spares Organiser (over a 25 year period).
Now Archivist (but not Machine Registrar), Gauges and Clocks Spares Organiser.
35 LG (project), 37 RH500, 52 ex ISDT KHA, 54 KH(A), 75 Healey 1000/4.
Former Machine Registrar & Archivist, General Secretary and Single Spares Organiser (over a 25 year period).
Now Archivist (but not Machine Registrar), Gauges and Clocks Spares Organiser.
- dave.owen
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Re: 1930 LF
John, have you thought about chamfering in leading edges of the shoes, generally improves braking.
Dave
Dave
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Re: 1930 LF
IF you substantially reduce the area of the trailing shoe it will work much better, Originally it was softer, allowing it to wear faster and apply more force on the leading shoe which is the most effective. Best are TWO leading shoe but don't stop you rolling backwards Nev
- JohnLay
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Re: 1930 LF
Thank you for your comments people.
Photo shows the linings, surface of which almost looks as though it had been polished, dead smooth.The plan is to have them relined maybe a little over size and then as Paul says remove a little of their surface to get a good match to the drum.- dave.owen
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Re: 1930 LF
John, I use Villiers services, on the West Midlands, usually 7 day turnround.
Dave
Dave
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- JohnLay
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Re: 1930 LF
Removed the rear brakes today and they are in no better state than the front. As you recommended they are in the post to Villiers Service. I have used them before and have been happy with their service.
- JohnLay
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Re: 1930 LF
Brake shoes back from Villiers Services to day.
A bit of a struggle to get the front wheel in, need something under the engine to keep the front forks up - no centre stand on this model - and then needing to do three things at once. less so with the rear wheel but do need to split the drive chain. Hopefully the brakes will do something in the way of stopping now, they certainly didn't do very much before.- JohnLay
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Re: 1930 LF
With the new linings fitted attention was turned back to the carburettor. I happened to have another carburettor to hand, same size, same jetting but it was a flanged type as opposed to the the stub mounting original. For this an adapter would be required.
At this point I also decided to clean out the fuel tank (again) and once more a fair amount of muck came out. With the tank refitted a new lot of fuel lines were made up, as the original ridged copper one no longer fitted.
A piece of ¼" plate was mounted in a 4 jaw chuck and board out, followed by shaping to suit the shape of the carburettor flange. Next, a sleeve was turned up to fit the the cylinder head stub, the two were then pressed and brazed together. The photos show the resulting adaptor in place using the clamp form the original carburettor to hold it in place.
At this point I also decided to clean out the fuel tank (again) and once more a fair amount of muck came out. With the tank refitted a new lot of fuel lines were made up, as the original ridged copper one no longer fitted.
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: 1930 LF
Hello John, I think you need to trim those new shoes down to get them working as best as they can .
the shoes have to 'match' the drum.
Simply fitting newly covered shoes and hope things have improved wont work I fear.
What I do is fit the shoes to the brakeplate and mount them in the lathe.
On the lever/cam side I slide in a small strip bend in a 'U' shape to act 'as if' the shoes move out when (starting) to break.
This will make sure that after turning down the shoes and after removing this small U shaped bit the shoes have just enough free play not to bind inside the drum.
Also remove the springs and tie the shoes up with wire and fix them against the brakeplate so that they cannot move sideways.
you will be surprised how much material you need to take off before they make up the circle you need.
see pictures, I hope they explain it better.
this is a WNG front brake
the shoes have to 'match' the drum.
Simply fitting newly covered shoes and hope things have improved wont work I fear.
What I do is fit the shoes to the brakeplate and mount them in the lathe.
On the lever/cam side I slide in a small strip bend in a 'U' shape to act 'as if' the shoes move out when (starting) to break.
This will make sure that after turning down the shoes and after removing this small U shaped bit the shoes have just enough free play not to bind inside the drum.
Also remove the springs and tie the shoes up with wire and fix them against the brakeplate so that they cannot move sideways.
you will be surprised how much material you need to take off before they make up the circle you need.
see pictures, I hope they explain it better.
this is a WNG front brake
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: 1930 LF
NG rear brake after trimming.
dont forget the chamfer Dave mentioned !
it's a good idea to put a vacuum cleaner right next to it ! pretty messy
dont forget the chamfer Dave mentioned !
it's a good idea to put a vacuum cleaner right next to it ! pretty messy
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