Oil weep from feed pipe nut

[bevanclark]

Hi folks,
There is a persistent drip from the oil feed pipe nut, even though the pipe end and it's counterpart fitting on the timing case appear in good order. See attached photo. it looks as if the pipe end is soldered on - is this correct ? I'm wondering if there is a hairline crack or someting that might be the cause. I'm reluctant to tighten it anymore lest I strip the threads. Is there any sealant that might work, given that it gets pretty hot ? Or any other suggestions ? Also - what type of washer is recommenced between the oil feed & return fittings and the timing case ?
Cheers,
Bevan

[dave.owen]

Make sure that the mating surfaces between bipe and Union are clean any dirt will cause a leak.
Fibre washer is normal for the union.

Dave

[David Smith]

On my KH 500 it did that for a while and then became dramatically worse, the pipe was cracked around the soldered on olive

[bevanclark]

Thanks guys,
I'll drain the tank once again and have another inspection of the pipe end fittings.
Cheers,
Bevan

[nevhunter]

I don't like fibre washers as they can crack. I use none with a bit of cotton thread used instead. You need a ring spanner down the copper pipe to the fitting going into the case to hold it against the force to tighten the ROSE. The rubber pipe has to be off to do this. . There's no reason a sweated joint should crack in use as long as it's not loaded. Copper does work harden, moreso if it's plated. Rudge didn't plate their oil pipes for that reason. Nev

[Mick D]

Hi

In my experience the most likely cause of a weep will be damage to the mating surfaces of the union and pipe nipple. If you're going to strip them for investigation I'd replace the nipple and union as a matter of course. The nipple is just soft soldered on and are available here:

https://www.gsparkplug.com/fuel-oil/cop ... connectors

And I'm sure Draganfly will be able to supply the union.

As far as sealing the crank case to union, I prefer Dowty washers and smear the threads during assembly with Wellseal.

Regards Mick

[SteveShone]

+1 for Dowty washers and Wellseal here.
As for a spanner, I have a ring spanner with a slot ground into it thats wide enough for the pipe to pass through - the remaing part of the ring is well up to the effort needed to tighten these fittings. I made it as the bottom entry float chamber feed on my VB600 is impossible to get at with any other spanner - for that matter the carb generally cant be removed without taking off the oil tank - and the tool box!

Steve

[Julian Murphy]

Snap.

I also have a 15mm ring spanner with a segment cut out. 15mm fits my nuts perfectly. (ooh err missues )

Correct me if I am wrong, but I seem to remember that there are two 'standards' for conical fittings, something like 55 deg and 60 deg, both of which will work best as a matching pair, and quite often get mixed up and consequently dont work......or did I dream that?

Anyway, check the mating faces of the male and female parts, or replace (as a pair).

[Paul Slootheer]

What a coincidence I once did the same!

[JohnnyBeckett]

hi you you can get pipe spanners with a thin wall witch are a lot stronger