Head torque

[T.J.Falloon]

What methods of torqueing the head on a MK1 Ariel square four do you use? I have had no end of dramas with both the head nuts between the barrel fins and the nuts beneath the carb intake and at the front between the exhaust flanges, firstly to get on the nuts ( especially the nuts under the carb intake )and secondly to torque them properly.
Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

[GuyWalton]

I made some 7/16 nuts that were 1/2 inch long . that way , once you have them on , there easily tightened with a 7/16 ring spanner . As for torque all I use is said ring end of spanner which is 5 inches long as tight as i can .

[Gui.dorey]

To be honest, and I’ll likely get stoned for this, I never managed to get a torque wrench on any nuts except the four inside the rockers before having the tank assembled. So in the end everything was tightened by feel. And no, my hand and wrist aren’t calibrated in any magical way.

For the nuts between the fins I use an open spanner which I cut to about half length otherwise I couldn’t get to the rear ones. For the four between the exhaust and under the intake manifold, I use a ring spanner whose walls I ground down to maybe 1mm thickness, and I can just get it over the nuts. It is also cut in length and I have to take out the carburetor to get to them.

All that being said, I don’t have a lot of mileage on her since the rebuild, so can’t tell you how well it holds. Will know more this next riding season.

Cheers
Gui

[paul.ptak]

There are numerous was to make or adapt tools to do this, but having one of these in the tool box all but gets rid of any excuse to not correctly torque those nuts and bolts that are impossible to put a torque wrench on.

Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0380

I believe my elbow is pretty well calibrated, and still rely on it in some cases, but being able to adjust the length of the wrench in the adapter I find that I can usually find some way to get on the head of a bolt or nut...even if its just the last 1/8 or 1/4 turn to get the torque wrench to "click". Fitting a socket to the end of a wrench then fitting it into the adapter opens up even more possibilities.

It's not exactly cheap, but for me it was worth the cost. The amount of time I've spent in the past modifying tools or rigging something up to get a torque reading was more valuable than the cost of the tool. I'm a bit of a tool-aholic, but having the right tools makes the work much more enjoyable.

Paul

[T.J.Falloon]

Thanks all for your input. Appreciate your help.

[peterR]

I am also in the process of a mk1 rebuild and was surprised when I was give the figures to torque the head down to. The attached is I beleive the Bruce Longman method. It gives figure for steel and stainless and combination of both.
Others on this forum have confirmend these figures.
You have to use a torque wrench where possible or a spring gauge at right angle on a spanner.
You will have to do the maths for correct pounds force as it depends on the length of the spanner used.

Hope this is of some help.

PeterR

[Gui.dorey]

Adjustable Torque Wrench Adapter
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0380

That's an interesting tool. think I#ll try to get one. Thanks Paul.