Hi Keith,
Are you referring to the pin in the bottom yoke that keeps the damper rod in place?
Well yes I did the bearings out, using a big blow torch and a slide hammer. I got up to similar tricks with the pin, this time using heat and a drift, but you have to put the yoke on a bench.
However, I am having terrible problems again with the races on another frame. This time no slide hammer but I made a drift out of a masonry chisel from Wickes. According to Waller you just drift them out from the other side.......but I think the problem is that they cold weld or something; perhaps it is just sixty odd years of rust!!
Anyway, I'm going to have another go soon and I'll let you know I I get on!
Keith
How to remove Bearing cups from headstock
- Keith.owen
- Holder of a Golden Anorak

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Re: How to remove Bearing cups from headstock
Keith Owen
Past Editor - Cheval de Fer
1950 Rigid Ariel VH
1951 Rigid Ariel NH
1973 Norton 850 Commando Interstate
1952 Plunger KH
Past Editor - Cheval de Fer
1950 Rigid Ariel VH
1951 Rigid Ariel NH
1973 Norton 850 Commando Interstate
1952 Plunger KH
-
keithberry
- Holder of a Nylon Anorak

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Re: How to remove Bearing cups from headstock
Cheers Keith yes the pin that wont budge lol, i have decided to paint this bit as it might be a pain after powder coat,because the etch primer get,s everywhere and i am concerned with the small holes for the fork shrouds,so i am off to get some tractor paint lol
T150T Trident, 71 A65, 72 kawa h2, 70 h1 ,75 t160, kawasaki z1r . bsa cyclone. 52 sq4
oh i need a bigger shed 
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Roger.Newell
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Re: How to remove Bearing cups from headstock
I too needed to remove that retaining pin from the steering damper rod from a 1956 FH Huntmaster. To get access to the front end of the pin to drive it requires the steering lock to be removed by taking out the grub screw high on the left side. I will replace my original slot headed screw with a proper Allen hex head. I then applied a daily liberal dose of Plus Gas penetrant for many days. I used a long tapered punch that just fitted through the access hole and had long enough shaft length to reach the pin. I suggest buying a suitable punch because, as others have mentioned, a too small diameter on the punch tip may splay the pin head. I used a heavy copper headed hammer that delivers a strong force rather than a sharp tap from a carpenters claw hammer. My pin yielded after a few blows. If it had not moved I would have used high power on electric head gun. I did require the heat gun to break loose the tapers on the top of the stanchions where the are secured to the handle bar bracket. I bought a new length of rod from Draganfly Parts although I think that the original piece would have been still OK to use.
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