Rear break plate spring to cam lever

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wade.edwards
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Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by wade.edwards »

Spent a lot of time searching the Ariel universe for advice on this application: Back to Basics, the Club library and You Tube.

Fresh powder coat on the rear 1946 NH, brake plate and do not want to scar it using screwdrivers or any other instruments of torture. Took it apart five years ago.

Got to get that return spring around the cam lever (done) but now to stretch it over the fulcrum without chewing the paint.

Is there a quick success video on any platform?
Thanks
Mick D
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by Mick D »

Hi

In the past I've been known to use strong tie wraps looped around the spring and now I have one of these hooks:

https://www.venhill.co.uk/long-shank-sp ... -vt11.html

Both will preserve your powder coat.

I've also made this to expand the shoes for fitting, it will allow the cam to be rotated when not under spring pressure and make fitting the return spring easy - another option;
Brake Expander.png
Brake Expander.png (396.34 KiB) Viewed 583 times
Regards Mick
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Roger Gwynn
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by Roger Gwynn »

Remove shoes, fit spring, re-fit shoes.
Roger Gwynn, Membership Secretary, curator of the Machine Register and the works drawings. Director of Draganfly Motorcycles, Craven Equipment and Supreme Motorcycles mostly retired.
wade.edwards
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by wade.edwards »

Appreciate the advice. Somehow I wasn’t clear.
Got the shoes on by placing one side and hinging, pulling and dropping the other set into place.

I was talking about the OUTSIDE, FRONT, coiiled return spring for the brake arm.
It’s a bugger to pry into place.

The plate is on the bench and tricky to hold down. Perhaps the best option is to install the wheel into the frame, then install the brake plate anchor stay to the frame. At least it won’t be sliding around.
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Keith.owen
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by Keith.owen »

Or, do as I do.

Fit shoes, springs, cam etc.

Put lever on cam and carefully rotate until the cam is at 90 degrees to the brake shoes ( if in the right position the pressure will hold it in this position). Now, fit the brake lever and fit washer and retaining nut; tighten enough to ensure lever is firmly in place (holding the lever with one hand so that the cam doesn't move).

Now, carefully move the lever so that the cam returns to rest position, and in getting there, engages with the spring.

Simples (but it took me a while to figure this one out).
Keith Owen
Past Editor - Cheval de Fer
1950 Rigid Ariel VH
1951 Rigid Ariel NH
1973 Norton 850 Commando Interstate
1952 Plunger KH
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Keith.owen
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by Keith.owen »

Forgot to say, with cam at 90 degrees, remove lever and drop spring into position, tail in the hole, then fit brake lever again, before carefully moving it clockwise so that the lever engages with the spring.

Sorry!
Keith Owen
Past Editor - Cheval de Fer
1950 Rigid Ariel VH
1951 Rigid Ariel NH
1973 Norton 850 Commando Interstate
1952 Plunger KH
wade.edwards
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by wade.edwards »

:x :shock:
Thanks for the advice.
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Roger Gwynn
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by Roger Gwynn »

I was not confused about which spring you meant and it is still easier to fit the cam with spring before the shoes
Roger Gwynn, Membership Secretary, curator of the Machine Register and the works drawings. Director of Draganfly Motorcycles, Craven Equipment and Supreme Motorcycles mostly retired.
wade.edwards
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Re: Rear break plate spring to cam lever

Post by wade.edwards »

Okay, I see what you are saying, Roger.

The explanation seemed to refer to the fitting of shoes, without referencing the brake arm return spring.

Got it now. Thanks
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