Spitting Hunter

[R.Herman]

Yes, that's the one.

[nevhunter]

Get the correct length Pushrod in there.. The inlet guide Must be a close fit or oil will be sucked down it.. It pulls a strong suction till the throttle is open and the Motor has load on it. Similar with the rings to a lesser extent. Get some load on it . Nev

[R.Herman]

Nev, I will need to order the correct pushrod from across the pond. I've had four other Brit Bike projects on hold waiting for the stupid tariffs to be removed as I need engine parts I cannot get here in the US.
The inlet side valve and guide are new.
I've drained the zinc-heavy oil from the tank and will refill with non detergent "lawn mower oil" to see if I can't get the rings well seated.
Regards,
Bob

[dave.owen]

If its a new rebore or rings , running in oil may help bedding in

Dave

[R.Herman]

That's what I figure. Hence the lawnmower oil. That will happen next week, as I live far from the source.

[nevhunter]

Very risky with High loaded Ariel cam followers (scuffing). Nev

[R.Herman]

So you don't recommend breaking in with non detergent oil?

[nevhunter]

Not if it doesn't preserve the CAM s and followers. That's the critical Lube Parts on Rudges and Ariels Particularly.. Since you ask the Question. NO. I never Have and I've done Lots of engines and Had No issues. A Honed bore will help the rings seat More quickly especially if it done Properly. You don't Nurse New rings. If they have the correct end gap there's not much likely to go wrong by using a bit of stick in bursts but NOT when the engine has gotten really hot. Build it up as the Miles accumulate. 30 mph for the first 1000 miles is not a good run in Programme.

[Simon.Gardiner]

Non-detergent would be OK but not a low-zinc one.
It's not just the zinc that makes it slippery,there are other additives as well, the zinc compound will build up slightly and reduce wear on the timing gear. (You don't want it to build up too much, so more than 1200 ppm isn't recommended. Low end should be around 800 ppm)
Recommended grades for the singles are 40 (winter) or 50 (summer), 30 is a bit thin unless you're somewhere very cold.
Some of us swear by running-in oil, some of us don't but you should probably avoid something like a synthetic or a semi-synthetic. However, oil is just as divisive a topic as tyres....

If you're not burning oil (smoking exhaust) any more I'd stop worrying about the rings, with no oil ring it will burn a bit more oil anyway. If you've lost the ball-valve in the timing cover breather that might not help, but the ball is in the elbow and you say you've got that so the breathing might well be all in order. If blowback through the carb is the problem, I still don't see how that can be anything but a valve timing problem. There's plenty on the Forum about valve timing and camshafts, as I think you've found.

Regarding the carb settings, you'll also find some posts from cfalco about the very variable sizing of Amal jets (even new ones) and their ability to wear quickly, don't rely on the numbers on the jets being accurate.

SG

[nevhunter]

The Only non detergent oils I know of are for Compressors. Whats harmful about detergents?. They just keep the Particles in suspension and keep the engine jnternals clean. . Nev