1937 VH Project

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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

Hi guys, DC40 question!
This is the panel I got which i believe it is a post war original (PA cutout??). The bakelite DC40 I have fits perfectly.
Is there any bronze version that fits on this panel?
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paul.jameson
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by paul.jameson »

The brass versions do exist and copies were for sale from AOMCC Singles Spares a few years ago. I have checked in the Singles Spares today for you (they are stored a few miles from where I live) but there are only standard brass ones left in stock now.

I do have an original brass one on my own 1937 RH500 but it is the only original one I have ever seen.
Paul Jameson
34 OHC 4F 600 (project), 35 LG (project), 37 RH500, 52 ex ISDT KHA, 54 KH(A), 75 Healey 1000/4.
Former Machine Registrar & Archivist, General Secretary and Single Spares Organiser (over a 25 year period).
Now Archivist (but not Machine Registrar), Gauges and Clocks Spares Organiser.
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

Thank you Paul for checking!
So if i understand correctly, there is 3 brass types: screw type, pin & spring type and bayonet type?
My panel is for the latter?
mark.prizeman
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by mark.prizeman »

Karol now does good brass copies

https://www-arielklub-sk.translate.goog ... r_hl=en-GB

But you will need an earlier (correct) tank top! - They do turn up
'25 Sunbeam 5 sports, '37 VH, '50 Magnat Debon M4, '53 AJS 20
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

How does the correct tank panel looks like?
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

On another note, today I installed the head and rocker box but i am not very happy with how the exhaust rocker makes contact with the valve due to the valve seat being too deep.
Any ideas? Shall I shorten a bit the pushrod tube as already suggested? I made those myself from 7/16” 20SWG stainless steel tube because i had 350 ones.
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volker.halbach
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by volker.halbach »

The valve stem should be in line with the adjuster when the valve is half-way open; otherwise you get increased wear of the valve stems and guides. By shortening the pushrod you will only get the contact point closer to the centre or the valve stem, but the adjuster and valve won't be aligned. The correct way would be to shorten the valve (or get valve seat inserts), but there isn't much material to remove at the top of the valves, and I gather you have the G&S with hardened ends. I have the G&S valves in my 37 NH, and they work very well without valve caps. I would definitely remove the valve cap, even if it doesn't make a big difference. How does it look with the valve caps removed?
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

Hi Volker, indeed there isn’t much space to shorten the valve. It looks like that without the cap.
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