1937 VH Project

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Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by Vincent.vanGinneke »

Hello Konstantinos,
Possibly the one with the bridge bracket on the outside is a WNG item, at least that is how my WNG mudguard is.

The rear 'Y' bracket on your Ariel needs to rotate a bit more towards the rear so that the hole near the lifting handle meets up with the bracket near the hinge.
As you can see the one in the centre stands vertical
(blue rack is a DIY item, as a lot of other things... :D )
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

Hi Vincent,

Yes, i know what you mean by vertical, like the plastic one I trial fitted.
I will do a final fitting on the 37’ frame later today with the correct bolts etc and then send them for blasting/patching up. As i will do for the front one. Unfortunately my forks are WNG :roll:

Also nice rack! I believe i have a 1950 one witch gets thicker where the holes for the bolts are.
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

How long should the rear wheel adjuster should be? I measured my newly acquired ones at 1 7/8”. They seem short.
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Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by Vincent.vanGinneke »

I think you have the ones for a swingarm ?
This is the one on my WNG frame, I think the same as earlier frame's

sort of 3 3/8"
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

Maybe.. I ordered 5740-30 as per the Parts list but i got the short ones.

Another question.. Are those valves too much recessed in the valve seats? Will that affect the operation of the engine?
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Simon.Gardiner
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by Simon.Gardiner »

ChinniK wrote: Fri Feb 06, 2026 7:07 pm .. Are those valves too much recessed in the valve seats? Will that affect the operation of the engine?
The valves are way too much recessed. They can be made to work, but I expect you'll need to shorten the stems to to get some tappet clearance (or to get the valves to close properly when the timing gear and rockers are assembled.)

I had a similar issue when I got a VH head back from someone who'd been extremely heavy with the valve-seat cutter.

SG
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'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '61 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST
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ChinniK
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

If i feel the valves too high on adjustment maybe i can remove the valve caps?
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by will_curry »

The valve caps are to protect the unhardened end of the valves so if the
valve stems have been hardened it would be OK.

However, there can't be much of the valve in contact with the valve seat
and this could lead to real trouble, especially with the exhaust valve. If the
valves have been ground a lot their heads could well be significantly
undersize. Try measuring the diameter of the heads. Somebody on the
forum may well be able say what the diameter is on a new valve head.
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by ChinniK »

The head is now with a machinist for valve guide replacement along with new G&S valves.

He also mentioned that the valves are quite recessed but he will see what he can do. Hopefully he is not too mean with it.

I have what I believe to be a 34’ head in very good condition which I can use if the other one is too bad. Problem is that i will need different bolts and i don’t know how those look in real life.
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Re: 1937 VH Project

Post by nevhunter »

They really need inserting to get the geometry right and improve the breathing. The inlet can be built up with Nickel Bronze which wears well but don't let an amateur crack the head It HAS to be Heated and cooled carefully. The exhaust seat is Not as Bad. It will Insert ok. You don't want inserts to be too wide in section They Have No "give" in them. That is actually a pretty GOOD condition Head to have these days, It's a long time since it was New. Nev
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