Battery not charging

[BruceWatts]

Hi All,
I have an 1958 Ariel SQ4. The battery is not being recharged when the bike is running, which is being confirmed by the ammeter needle not going in to the positive. The bike will start and run for a while until the battery goes flat.
Before I embark on some unnecessary open heart surgery, can anyone tell me how to simply check the Lucas generator to see if it is producing power?
Can it be checked without the engine running, ie just turning the engine over on the kick start and a multi meter?
Thks
Bruce

[will_curry]

viewtopic.php?t=189

has to be the place to start.

I don't think you'll get very far trying to test just by kicking.

Has it ever charged and do you know what voltage regulator is fitted?

[Simon.Gardiner]

I think this should probably be in 'electrics', so it's moved....

SG

[BruceWatts]

The bike was fine before it was put away for winter.
I have bought a new, larger 6v battery ( 12,6Ah ) so maybe that will run the bike longer for me to put a volt meter on the generator.
I am hoping that the brushes or commutator just need a bit of TLC/cleaning.
I have been told that regulators either work or they don't, so I have a replacement if that turns out to be suspect.
Electrics are not my forte, so if the national grid goes down ever the weekend, you know who to blame !!
Bruce

[paul.jameson]

From the description you have given, it wouldn't surprise me if the problem is simply your battery having gone too flat over the winter. I would take it off and give it a few hours charge with an external charger, then try again.

In suggesting this, I am thinking that you probably have an electronic regulator. These won't work if the battery voltage is too low but you just might get the engine to start on what is left in the battery. The reason the battery may have gone down over the winter is that electronic regulators do drain the battery slowly - some types being a lot worse than others.

[nevhunter]

Batteries left completely FLAT even for say a Month can be difficult to recover. Keep them fully charged and save Money and time. There ARE some fancy chargers Programmed to recover batteries but you have to make sure Nothing gets Hot . All cells must recover. ANY Gel/paste Battery that gets hot is finished . Nev

[Chris Sealy]

You can do a basic continuity test of the dynamo by removing the end cover. Inside you will find the two wires held in their connections by a single screw.
Unscrew the screw a few turns, then pull on both wires until the paxolin insulation moves as far as the screw head will allow. Repeat until the screw is fully undone. This method avoids loss of the screw.
Put your multimeter on continuity, or ohms; and measure between the upper connection and the aluminium body. You should get a reading of 2.6 ohms. Then measure the lower connection to the body, the reading should be less than 1 ohm.
Post your results and I may be able to advise further.
If you find any sign of oil you may well have found the problem.

[BruceWatts]

]I have done some basic checks using my multimeter as per recommendations I found in an old technical document.
It would appear that the generator is only putting out a few volts, so I believe the source of the problem lies there.
Now for the questions.
1. How do I get the generator out? I see it has a clamp over the body. If I undo this, does it simply pull out? There is very little longitudinal movement, so I hope there is enough room without having to start taking off engine casings.
2. Where do I start to look? What do I need to test/check? Obviously a good clean is at the top of my tasks.
I have attached some pics of the item in question, just in case I have a non standard assembly. which will be just my luck !!
Thks
Bruce

[will_curry]

Getting the dynamo off is real chore: the timing cover has to come off and
the dynamo drive gear pulled off the dynamo. The members' section of
the club website has a soft copy of the manual - Waller- in the library section
which will give you chapter and verse. Once you put the dynamo back the
ignition will have to be retimed too.

Most of what you need to do can be done with the dynamo in situ. It'll only
have to come out if it needs specialist treatment.

Before going too far into the dynamo I'd give the control box and wiring a
good check-over. What sort of control box is it?

[nevhunter]

The GENERATOR MAY have Lost it's RESIDUAL Magnetism and just needs to be FLASHED. IF it worked before it should still be OK, Nev