1950 VB Clutch play

[bevanclark]

Hi folks,
As you will see from the video I've linked below, there seems to be significant in and out play in the clutch, due to gearbox mainshaft end float.
Both clutch and gearbox work really well; I've not needed to dissemble the BA box since getting the bike so would appreciate guidance on what I need to look for - e.g. what controls the endfloat ?
Cheers,
Bevan

https://youtu.be/LMgdvEeS_Xc?si=i4vdJyfKLlWD7szb

[garycullen]

Hi Bevan,
If you go to the members area and find Wallers references for gearbox and clutch, ( down the bottom of the list ) you should find end float details and what to do about it on page 155. Basic specs says end play of 1/64 to 1/32 is acceptable.
Shimming the kick start end of the shaft or undercutting the shaft main nut on the kick start quadrant to allow it to go further on the shaft there by “pulling” the shaft back a bit to tighten it up ………I suppose!
Gary

[bevanclark]

Thanks Gary,
I hadn't spotted it in my Waller book (3rd ed), but it is there on p123.
As best as I can measure with a dial gauge the end float is only 0.02" which is within spec. So, looks are deceiving - it seemed much more than that with the clutch in place. So I may leave well enough alone.
Taken the opportunity to recork the plates while I have the clutch off.

Still puzzled about the prematurely knackered chain. It has significant sideways play, yet can't have stretched much since I only made a couple of very minor (probably unnecessary) adjustments over 3500 miles. It was a Regina brand chain - are they junk ?

Cheers,
Bevan

[garycullen]

I haven't heard about Regina Chains. When I bought one for my VB back a few years now from Drag's . ... cant remember the brand so it may have come off a bulk chain reel they had. ...it came with the correct number of links and in a continuous loop.
So far all is good.

[garycullen]

Meant to add: make sure the sprockets are lined up. If they are reasonably in line the end float will allow adjust a small amount.

[nevhunter]

Check your Primary Chain tension with the rear chain forced to be tight and lube it with good sticky chain oil and wash off the Preservative grease as it's rubbish, Don't use a chain with Split rollers or heavy side Plates. ARIELS don't allow much room to clear things. Some Japanese Chains are good.I've used Reynolds plenty of times. Don't use Industrial stuff. How each side of the sprockets polish up shows alignment. Check initially with a straight edge or a fine thread of cotton. The gearbox will tend to be Pulled backwards due to the Higher rear chain Load/ tension so have the adjuster finish up holding it forward. Nev

[bevanclark]

Thanks for the guidance guys.

I'm pleased to say that the (just arrived) new chain has WAY less side play than the one I took off !
Nev, you are certainly right about the gunge on the new chains - it was so thick that some of the links were virtually locked up. All ok now after a rinse in kero.
I am pretty confident the chain line is o.k. and there is no sign of rubbing on the side of the sprocket teeth or the insde of the old chain plates. The old chain is very little longer than the new one, link for link, so clearly hadn't stretched much, so it is a bit of a mystery why it developed so much side play after oly 3500 miles. I'll keep a careful eye on the new one and see how we go.

Only 3C in the garage this morning, so there are going to be some numb fingers reassembling the primary side shortly !
Roll on Summer.
Cheers, Bevan