anti-squeal brake shoes on front with normal shoes on rear

[GordonR]

Having just bought a leader and joined the club I am in the process of re-commissioning the bike and recently took both wheels off to examine the brake linings which are in good condition but are different front wheel to back wheel as the front has anti-squeal springs but the back doesn't is this a problem? Also the front brake back plate is " rocking" on the hub and when re-assembled, moves when the brake is applied this doesn't seem very good for efficient braking any help would be helpful to me as the last time I did anything to a leader was way back in the 60's as a daft teenager!!
GordonR

[nevhunter]

IF the Plate can Rock it can also Jamb and lock the front wheel. Some have a strongish STAR spring or you shim it. Rectify it. It's happened to Me, (Indian 101) and you hit the road at lightning speed or bend thing s like forks (my mates Brough). Nev

[GordonR]

thanks for confirming what I suspected and I will have to totally strip the front brake and bearings along with perhaps replacing the spindle,as it's not in the best of condition due to being mis-treated by a previous owner, ah well it'll just take a bit longer to get back to Canned Heat condition (On the Road again!!) as the song from the sixties goes.
GordonR

[will_curry]

It won't make any difference to the braking - except perhaps the noise - if there are anti-squeal springs
are fitted or not.

The front brake plate has to pivot on the spindle to compensate for the movement of the suspension
under braking. There should be a grease nipple in the end of the spindle to allow the bush in the brake
plate to be lubricated. The spindles can get remarkably bent and battered by users using a hammer
to get the spindle in. I've managed to hammer them back into shape before now - well enough for the
special tool for extracting them to easily fit.

[JohnnyBeckett]

hi , i would try use softer linings to stop the squealing and make it stop better

[nevhunter]

Original brake linings had the trailing shoe made of softer and faster wearing material. This works much better than having them both the same. Cast iron drums are far superior to steel which does tend to squeal and wear badly with some lining material. Now a days they are mostly Bonded. They should all be radiused to match the drum. If you are using rivets with a steel drum ALUMINIUM ones will not groove the drum as brass ones will when the linings wear down enough. . Watch large oversize drums and out of round with steel ones particularly IF you tension some spokes more than others to Pull the rim straight. That can cause wheel lock up. IF you are not used to old and inadequate brakes, be careful on longish down hill runs when they can easily overheat and hardly work at all. Ride slower and use the gears particularly with loaded outfits. Nev

[Bernie Blundell]

"the front brake back plate is " rocking" on the hub " ..... if you mean the plate is rocking sideways on the spindle, look for wear in the bronze bush in the brakeplate &/or the steel 'tophat' bush

[Bernie Blundell]

As mentioned earlier, beware the 'mullered' axle grease nipple, mine as inherited & after a bit of fettling in the lathe ...

After fitting the new nipple, pump a lot of fresh grease through to ensure the passage is fully clear, then one pump on assemby & once every 1000 miles thereafter.

[admin]

Bernie - please see
viewtopic.php?t=13881

Please no images hosted from external websites !
(I'll convert these to local images when I get some time.)

SG

[Bernie Blundell]

Sincerest apologies Admin, off to search for a 'how to' >>>>>

Found it ... viewtopic.php?p=29396&hilit=how+to+add+images#p29396

Edited post, apologies again for my ineptitude