New member 1941 Ariel W/NG

[simon.holyfield]

On parts books - don't be afraid to look at non WNG parts books. A lot of bits are common to other models.

Most of the parts books are available from the library on the club website.

[YourivdA]

So this afternoon I think I fixed the problem with the throttle. The contact points seemed to be to far apart. Probleem seems gone.

Can someone tell me something about the top speed? I've read about 70mph. Mine reaches 50 with ease, then slowly up to 55. But that's it. It has de Amal 275 carburateur, so that's the small one if I'm correct. Not that I want to go any faster then 55mph but I wonder if somethings wrong.

Have a great weekend.

[simon.holyfield]

Top speed sounds about right to me. I guess mine will get faster but I'm not sure I'd want to try.

[simon.holyfield]

I missed that point about the trigger lifter lever - I think if you look in some of the latest parts books in the library you will find that some of the 44-on contracts have trigger lifters. The military specifications became standardised in several areas including handlebar equipment late in the war.

Post war, Ariel went back to fitting their usual double levers on the left hand side for the ignition timing and the decompressor. I believe that these double levers went on until the end of the singles production in 1958.

[YourivdA]

Thank you Simon. Again very helpful info.

I wouldn't want to go any faster either. For that I own a MT09SP. Although I must say that de Ariel gives a bigger smile on my face. 17bhp against 117bhp..

Tomorrow I'll pick up the clutch/magneto lever.

It's fun to get the bike as original as possible. On the other hand, it needs to be practical. I believe during the war they would've used anything that was available. So do I.

[nevhunter]

Your rear stand is for the upswept pipe bikes The RHS leg should be curved in near the higher Part,. Also where the UP limit stop on the frame needs welding and dressing up square. Check you are getting about 35 degress of advance at full advance. The original muffler is a Burgess and they are good. Your's might have too much back pressure. ( Baffled too much). Nev

[YourivdA]

Your rear stand is for the upswept pipe bikes The RHS leg should be curved in near the higher Part,. Also where the UP limit stop on the frame needs welding and dressing up square. Check you are getting about 35 degress of advance at full advance. The original muffler is a Burgess and they are good. Your's might have too much back pressure. ( Baffled too much). Nev

Thanks Nev.

I've been looking at the rearstand. It seems to have been completely rebuild. De cross section is welded in, looks nothing like original or reproduction. Yesterday I've bent it so that it doesn't hit the muffler anymore. I have to say it kinda looks original now. I'm as we speak looking to buy a welding machine. I own one, but thats only ably to weld with sticks, i don't know the proper English word. I once was a certified pipe welder, but never used tig, so I'm looking to buy a mig welder and I will definitely fix it up. Thanks for your sharp eye!

I'm not able to check the degrees yet. I don't have the right tool, the disc with al the degrees on it. Again, my English.. haha. I did check the timing. Contacts start opening at 1/2" before TDC, so that's alright. I brought the points closer together, where apart over 0.4mm where as the book said 0.3mm max.

The muffler is something interesting. As much as I don't like the way the previous owner restored the bike. I have to say that they did a great job on the muffler. Its handmade using a press and a bicycle bell. It looks good, but pressurewise it might be a problem, any way to check this? My girl knows when to put coffee on the table 5 minutes before I arrive, it's loud!

[simon.holyfield]

This might help.

There shouldn't be any back pressure - it's an absorbtion silencer, there are no baffles. Basically a long piece of perforated tube wrapped with a blanket to absorb some of the pressure pulses. They do work!