1946 VH 500 Restoration

[KenS]

Decided to remove the valves and check the guides and seats. Although the valves were not leaking when filling the chamber with petrol, I refreshed the seats using fine rubbing compound. In doing so, I noticed several sharp casting edges as well as fairly large flow restrictions so with my die grinder, double edge cutters and a Dremel tool I used to port my Mazda Rotary race engine ports with, I ground all of the obstructions and sharp edges out without increasing the port diameters, then sanded the rough casting metal out. This will undoubtably improve air flow in both ports. The Halite washer under the exhaust valve spring was almost gone with a 1/4 of the diameter gone! I've ordered new ones to replace both.
My 7/16" OD x .028" wall 4130 tubing arrived. I cut to match the length of the old ones, squared them up the ends in the lathe and pressed on the lower ball-ends on using a 7/16" flaring tool block to hold the tube square in the press. Waiting for the new top ends to arrive before completing what will be "new" push rods.
The cylinder is at the machine shop being bored with .007" clearance for the new JP piston.

[KenS]

UPDATE: I am delighted to report that my 46 VG500 is now fully titled and registered to ride on the road now in part due to the Transfer Certificate proving its age with matching frame and engine numbers. To be honest, this was my biggest concern since I had been working on it so long! Now, when I receive my long awaited spares, I can install the new push rods and ride it when it warms up.

[KenS]

For those interested, I have a brief history of the restoration page on my website: https://kenscheepers.com/1945-ariel-vg500/

[KenS]

UPDATE: Since completing the restoration, our weather has bee very cold 20 - 45 degrees with 3" of snow as well so I have not ridden my bike. Yesterday, we had a beautiful day, although still cold so I decided to suck it up and go for a ride. Before that, I decided to change the oil from SAE 50 and used Castrol SAE 20W-50. While at it, I also modified a new drain plug, adding a 1/4" round magnet at the end.
With a new bicycle GPS Speedo mounted, I rode 2 miles around my 2 acre yard, ensuring oil pressure was good etc. Then dusted off my helmet, added a layer and hit the streets, staying close to home just in case. Oh, what a pleasure it was and at mile 14 wile riding at 35 MPH, I heard a rattle and immediately pulled in the clutch and stopped. Geez, what could it be as I waited for my wife to pick my up. Turned over ok!

Diagnosis: The exhaust pushrod was off the rocker arm (which was the rattle I heard) and the exhaust valve had seized in the valve guide, open approximately 3/16". Luckily, there was not a mark on the piston.

I removed the valve springs, then with a punch and hammer, I was able to get the stem out of the guide. What I did notice is it had a dark color on the stem and underside of the valve, and felt sticky! I did used an engine assembly lube when I assembled the head.

When building a spreadsheet of all the 212 spare parts I had purchased or had made starting in 1987, I did purchased new valve guided and the tools to replace them, but did not replace the original valves and springs. Although I do not remember actually replacing the guides myself, I did not check the guide to stem clearances when i assembled the engine recently. I immediately ordered new valves, guides and springs just to be sure moving forward.

I am perplexed by this sticky substance and color of the valve. Could it be a result of the assembly lube or, the Castrol 20W-50 I used I'd love to hear your thoughts.

[KenS]

UPDATE: I hate to admit this, but it is what it is; Upon removing the valves in order to replace the guides, I measured the valve stems to find the inlet valve and guide was in the exhaust port and visa versa for exhaust valve and guide. That's the reason the "exhaust valve was all black between the head and guide area and began to bend, causing it to stick.

It never crossed my mind to check these measurements prior to assembly. Lesson learned the hard way.

[simon.holyfield]

Ken,

There's a post on the forum somewhere relating to Paul Jameson's Healey, and the (very high) temperature of the oil in a four - Paul had a similar sticky black deposit on the valve stems, which was down to the engine exceeding the maximum temperature for the oil Paul was using.

I doubt if you would see those temperatures on a single, but from the few times I've been in Texas (Houston) I know it can get pretty hot.

[paul.jameson]

Oh dear! But we have all had problems like this when learning our way round Ariels. The chances are that your problem was more the valve than the guide. I have in the past used 500cc inlet guides as exhaust guides in a 350 with no more problems than when using the correct guide. (The 350 exhaust has the same stem diameter as the 500 inlet although from memory the length below the collar of the guide is different.)

[paul.jameson]

I can't see any danger of the sticky problem being the same as the one on my Healey due to the fact that you added a layer before going out to ride whereas I was quite hot. Equally, I was moving very slowly in traffic and by the sound of things, you kept moving. Finally, the Square Four engine as a large lump gets hotter than the single - I also run a 1937 RH500 and that never gets anywhere like as hot as the Square. But the post you need if you want to look at it is: viewtopic.php?t=13595

[KenS]

UPDATE: Rebuilt the Dynamo using new bearing, bushing, brushes and a new drive gear. I was shocked to see just how much my original had worn down. .071" plus very worn teeth. I installed a new ELE-28 electronic regulator, mounting it inside the original MCR-2 enclosure and utilizing the original connector arrangement. Double checked the wiring and in doing so, discovered that the Lucas headlight switch "L" position is for the park lights (not low beam as I had wired it) and the "H" position is headlight ON, and Low and High beams a switched by the handlebar hooter/low/high beam switch.
The next and final step (I hope) will be installing the new valve guides, valves and valve springs when they arrive.

[KenS]

Edited wiring diagram including Electronic Regulator (ELE-28 V-Reg. Rev. 2B) with recommended Polarizing and Testing the Lucas Type E3, 40 watt Dynamo.