1946 VH 500 Restoration

[KenS]

No, I will be using Avgas LL100 in this baby!

[KenS]

UPDATE:
After searching for months, I finally found my petrol tank badges I purchased from Dragonfly back in 1987 today wrapped in tissue paper in an old toolbox I hardly use anymore. Must be old age? My excitement was short lived when I realized that my tank has no "mounting fixtures" to screw them on.
The research on the forum and after locating an old photograph of the petrol tank prior to having it re chrome plated in 1987, the original ARIEL was applied with a Transfer, most likely a water-based application, and the only colors used in 1946 were red (for a Red Hunter) and blue for the others. No new blue transfers were available from Dragonfly, so I had vinyl printed graphics designed to match the originals based off screenshots, and ordering four.
The new front and rear Dunlop tires and inner tubes were delivered so removing the wheels provided an opportunity to redo a few more items. Sanding and repainting the Toolbox, front forks and front mudguard brackets, polishing the chrome wheel rims and front brake backing plate, buffing and polishing the mudguards, cleaning and lubricating the wheel bearings, inspecting and lubricating the brake cams, and mounting the new tires and tubes. I decided to reassemble the mudguards, replacing all the old and rusty nuts, washers and screws with stainless steel, Allen-head and nylon-insert nuts and washers. After the forks were refitted and adjusted, the mudguard, number plate and headlight were next.
The polished wheels were next, beginning with the rear and adjusting the chain. While installing the rear brake lever, I chose to use a purchase a longer, multi-hole pin that permitted me to secure a return spring and the brake light switch in a much neater arrangement.
I picked up the new petrol tank transfers and applied them to the tank after a good polish of the chrome and paint. While waiting for my new +.060" JP piston and ring set to arrive from Dragonfly, I made arrangements to have the cylinder bored and honed at the race engine rebuild workshop I've used for many years, giving me comfort they will do a good job. All of the other bits and pieces were delivered yesterday that included my much anticipated Dating Certificate that informed me of three items I need to address.
First, the cylinder head was originally a twin exhaust port, mine is a single port but my chances of finding an original is probably a stretch at best. Second, I will need to purchase a Pillion Seat and footrests. The third, and probably the most important as I am almost ready to register and license the bike (and insure it) here in the USA so that I can ride it on the public roads.
The latter had me research our state requirements to Title and register the motorcycle, and part of the information required, among other things is the bike's value. I have no idea, so I'm looking for some idea from our members please. It's not going to be a "perfect restoration" and most likely subjective, so any guideline will be appreciated please.

[SEDoan]

Looking good! If Texas is anything like Washington they will reference the JD Power NADA value scale and as long as your value is close they shouldn't complain.

1946 Ariel VG 500 SINGLE 497cc Values range from $1800 to $8200. Apparently there are no poor condition Ariels.
https://www.jdpower.com/motorcycles/194 ... 7cc/values?

I might have a spare 500cc twin port head.

[KenS]

Looking good! If Texas is anything like Washington they will reference the JD Power NADA value scale and as long as your value is close they shouldn't complain.

1946 Ariel VG 500 SINGLE 497cc Values range from $1800 to $8200. Apparently there are no poor condition Ariels.
https://www.jdpower.com/motorcycles/194 ... 7cc/values?

I might have a spare 500cc twin port head.

Appreciate that info, that's a good starting point so I'll use $6,500 to start with. I'd be interested to know if you have a head.

[KenS]

If or when I install the twin-port head, would it have been an up or down-swept exhaust? If down, can I reuse the right hand exhaust pipe and silencer and purchase the left hand pipe and silencer?

[SEDoan]

The factory record on the dating certificate should record it- "Us Pipe" is written on mine. The single port head is thought to perform better than the twin port.

The exhaust stub diameter is smaller on the twin port head so the finned clamp is 1 3/4" for twin port and 2" for single port. The pipes are the same except a larger collar is welded on the single pipe to fit over the larger stub - so they are not interchangeable.

I like up swept pipes so I've put them on both my bikes, a single port and a twin port. You need to run heat shields with up swept pipes - they will burn your leg and melt synthetic pants and boots otherwise. There is a slight difference in the rear fender stay, I think the correct one has a reinforced mounting hole for hanging the muffler. I just made a longer L-bracket. The mufflers are different too: the up swept version has a small horizontal mounting tab near the bottom of the muffler while the low mufflers have longer vertical strap for hanging the muffler.

With up swept twin exhaust the left pipe runs very close to the back of the E3L dynamo so it is more difficult to remove because the strap needs to be removed. The left pipe also gets in the way while setting the magneto timing - you can time the magneto with the pipe on, it's just harder to see. The muffler outlets of the up swept pipes exit so close to the wide license plate holder that I prefer the looks of the narrower plate.

Every up swept pipe I've gotten needs a little tweak to fit well so you may want to get them in bare steel and fit them to the bike before chrome plating. The pipes are available from Armours: https://armourmotorproducts.co.uk/

[KenS]

UPDATE: While waiting for my new piston to arrive, it's been a bit slow and after washing all of my parts, drying them off and laying them out on a clean towel in order of re assembly on my work bench. A few days later I happened to glance over at the towel and noticed one of the push rods had a bit of dirty oil at the cup end. I cleaned it out then turned it upside down and more oil began to seep out. After inspecting the inside of the cup, I noticed that the cup depth was deeper by 0.047" than the other, and it had a tiny crack at the bottom of the cup! Then to confirm, I noticed the tappet adjusting screw was noticeably "longer" than the other, thus compensating for the worn cup. I feel fortunate to have uncovered this before re assembling the engine and potentially avoiding a catastrophic failure down the road! Now to find a new or replacement 1855-35 (11 3/16" effective length) push rod!
I am closer to being able to register and license the bike now, learning the procedures and required paperwork needed, and have an inspection appointment proving the age, identification numbers and my import paperwork on the 9th of January.

[KenS]

PUSHROD: After learning that the original pushrod end are press fitted to the 7/16" or 0.4375" OD x 0.025" wall tubing, I used an OTC-1121 bearing puller to clamp around the OD of the pushrod tube and with a heavy 3/4" drive socked used as a slide hammer, I held the other end by hand and removed the worn top end after about 10 strikes. The pushrod was filled with oil as well!
Now I need to locate a new or used/second hand end to replace mine.

I see on Dragonfly's parts list two ends that look similar and do not have any dimensions in the description. The part numbers are 1860-26 and 1860-28. Any suggestions please

[will_curry]

According to both the 1940 and the 1947/8 parts list the pushrod top is 1860-31 which does seem to
be in stock at Draganfly.

[KenS]

According to both the 1940 and the 1947/8 parts list the pushrod top is 1860-31 which does seem to
be in stock at Draganfly.

Thanks, I could not find that part number by paging through the Singles spares. I'll confirm that before ordering a pair.