Try asking on the Leader & Arrow facebook page.
Gotta wonder at why the owner has not fitted a decent kickstart rubber on the first one, big split lets the whole thing down I think.

Further to Roger's post above, inlet cam is 1/16th above centre line & exhaust is 1/16th below centre line, crankshaft is on centre line, dot at the top.

Trev, the two stroke spares man deffo has them, it's his advert on ebay, so you will be buying from AOMCC.
I dare say he will bring some to the AGM if you're going

Bolt part number K138-48 same part number used in square 4 (1937 - 58)
Nut part number SN3 also used in SOME square fours
Washer part number 10418-54 (so spanner will fit)

Taken from Draganfly list 15

Agree on the OXA toolpost Simon, my aluminium one got 'relegated' to the 2X12 Sherline.
I'll have a look in the EMCO cabinet later, there should be a fixed &/or traveling steady to fit your lathe luxuriating in there somewhere.
Have you looked at .. The Complete Mini-Lathe Workshop .. by Ted Hansen ...

This thread ? ..... viewtopic.php?p=94726#p94726 ..... interesting thread with good info

As Nev says there is a possibility that this is your problem, if nothing else it is probably changing the valve overlap period.
You could try swapping the pushrods round & see if the problem moves to a smokey exhaust.
I neglected to put the part # for 10 3/8ths ... 1856 - 34
Do you have a timing ...

Hmmmmm, reading through I note ... " I pulled out the pushrods and found that they are different lengths. The old Clymer manual I have does not mention different lengths. One is +/- 10-3/8" and the other is about 1/4" shorter. Both are steel, as apparently is correct for the iron barrel and head. I ...

Might be running lean, what colour is the spark plug ?

What size do you need Simon ? I might have a bit of Aluminium bronze in the draw. Good wear resistance, normally used in harsh environments & grease lubricated. Great to machine, with very little cold welding on the cutting tool.