Paint or Plastic Coat

[Glyn.Ford]

Hi all.

My first posting. I have a 1956 Ariel Huntmaster FH. I am in the process of removing parts from the frame in preperation for painting. The frame appears to be a purple "grape" enamel coating, which has been over painted black. What is the preferred process, and what is the best coating, paint or Plastic coating? Is there and official colour code to match the original purple enamel?

I hope to get the frame and swing arm sandblasted, any suspect welding repaired, and galvanised prior to finish coat. Can anyone recommend a company which can do this to a high standard, in the Manchester area, and any advice on preparation?

Many thanks.

Glyn Ford

[adrie.degraaff]

Hi Glyn,
I see that you don't have a answer yet, I don't think paint will hold on galvanisation.
You could use powdercoat on a 1956 becouse there is no clamping to the frame, (clamp won't fit anymore).
The other parts are already asked and answered on this site.

[robin.parker]

Hello Glyn, I'm jealous of your Huntmaster, I had one back in the 1970's, loved it and do wish I still had it, it was Deep Claret from new but I believe someone has "restored" it and painted the poor old thing Black and Red, and that it lives only about 8 miles away from me.
You will read and hear differing views on paint/powder coating, there is no right or wrong, other than it's hard to "touch-up" powder coat. As regards Galvanising, IMHO that is a lot of unneccesary trouble to go to and horrible if any welding or brazing is needed at a later date.
Good luck,
Robin.

[Glyn.Ford]

Thank you Robin, Adrie. Another consideration is to maybe get it re enamelled, as original method?

I can understand the forum is split between Paint and Powder Coat. My first thoughts was to paint it, as any chips can be rubbed back a little and pained. I considered that Powercoat would hide any developing rust, if it chipped out of sight? If paint chiped in a place you could not see it, at least you would see the surrounding surface paint starting to fail. However fellow biker friends suggested that Powercoating sets harder than paint, and hence more resilient to chips?

More research needed..... Any further guidance greatfully appreciated. Thanks.

Glyn Ford

[Simon.Gardiner]

I think you're dead right about powdercoating hiding any developing rust; it is much harder than paint but there will be places where rust will start and you won't see that until there's lot of rust. And then the powdercoating will be a swine of a job to get off. (Speaking from experience here)
On a bike frame galvanising is a bit OTT; however my local galvaniser reckons that if you let it 'weather' for a few months you won't have any trouble painting it (but he's got a vested interest in it so he would say that wouldn't he!) - and it's probably the only sure way of avoiding future rust attacks.
However, for me, paint every time. It's not perfect but it's easiest to fix.

[simon.holyfield]

I powder coated most of my Bantam paintwork during its rebuild. There are lots of pictures on the Bantam page in my blog, but for my SQ4 I don't think I will do it again.

A few problems: it is very thick and hard. This means that it looks good and is durable, but it also hides a lot of detail.

I found that anywhere that fasteners apply pressure to the paint, on the edge of a lug, the paint can crack. You will also find areas where the parts won't fit any more due to the paint thickness.

Conversely, the thickness can also be useful - its very hard wearing and fills in nooks & crannies.

Like anything else, powder coat has its uses, but is not a universal solution for every part.

[david.anderson]

Glyn
I would never consider having a frame galvanised. Hot dip galvanising will fill all holes and possibly distort frame members. Electroplate zinc will require acid and possibly cyanide dipping. The plater will then drill holes in the various frame members and use a compressor to blow all the nasties out but won’t be completely successful. Rust will start internally and within a few years the frame will break. I speak from experience in that my 810 Dunstall Norton had a nickel plated frame. At 7 years old (not me, the bike) I put the bike on the sidestand to have the sidestand lug break off taking some of the frame with it. I started to cut out pieces of the frame to weld a piece in. Unfortunately the whole frame was so badly rusted internally that it could not be saved. I ended up with a replacement frame from the wreckers. After making enquiries I found out that was normal for electroplating. Chrome plate may be worse due to hydrogen embritlement of the steel.
With regards to paint I always use 2 pak automotive paint which if forced dry is virtually as hard as powder coat. Even when air dried it is quite hard and chip resistant. I am currently using an Iso free 2 pak which is just as hard as conventional 2 pak but without the nasties.
David

[Don. Munnings]

Just a little word of warning. My son had his 15-year-old Ducati frame powder coated. The police stopped him on a random check and impounded his bike because they couldn't read the frame number.

[Graham.Goral]

David, what's the make and type of the non-iso paint you're using please?

[david.anderson]

Graham
The paint I have been using is Australian manufactured so I doubt that it is available in England. The manufacturer is Hi Chem. The iso free clear can also be used over acrylic lacquer provided the acrylic has been cured for at least a week. I have been very happy with the results I have achieved with it.Their web site does not say a lot but here is the link. http://www.hichem.com.au/htmlfiles/indu ... paints.htm

David