Ariel Colt forks

[tfritts]

Hello everyone!
I am new to this forum...... Thanks in advance for your time!

I am currently rebuilding the forks on an Ariel Colt. I have rebuilt Japanese bike forks numerous times but I cannot even get these forks apart!
I ordered a manual but it didn't help at all.
How do I get the forks apart? Do I need a special tool? Do I need to take the fork sleeves off? If so, how?!

Thank you!

[john.nash]

http://www.draganfly.co.uk/images/shop/lh/15.gif

they look the same as the forks on the others ?
You take off the top nut, slacken the bolts through the lower yokes and drop out the legs. The spring is external.

12734-54 is the seal carrier (chrome ?) and it will unscrew from the forkleg.
There is a special tool to get inside to the lugs:
http://www.draganfly.co.uk/shop/pd-2093 ... tegoryId=0

but you can do it with a BIG pair of stilson grips, a vice and plenty of rags...

if you are going to change the seals, inside the carrier, then you could use heat.

[tfritts]

These are the ones! I will be in England next week and was planning on checking ordering from dragonfly and having it sent to where I am staying. Is there anything else I should get besides new seals and that tool before I order? Thanks for your quick reply, I appreciate it!

[tfritts]

I guess I have one more quick question concerning the tool that was in the link.

Does the top fork tube 12728-54 fit through the middle of it? Thanks!

[john.nash]

The "seal carriers" are hollow (so the fork sliders can go through)
They are threaded, at one end, where they screw to the top of the fork bottoms.
Maybe a third through is like a "ridge", where the seal seats. You push it in over the screw threads.
The other side of this "ridge" has the two depressions which the tool engages with to unscrew them (one end , of the external springs sit on this as well)

I would seriously save yourself the money on the tool, which you may use once (and then lend to everyone else).
Often as not, the two depressions have been rounded nicely in the past 50 years and the tool slips off them.
I'd actually go for some gentle heat and try it, by hand, with some rags wrapped around the "seal carrier" first. Often they will unscrew without drama.
Failing that it's very careful application of the stilsons (available in most workshops .... ) with more rags to stop it chewing up the chrome . Remembering that they are hollow, grip them as close to the bottom as possible otherwise they may distort at the top.

You'll often have more fun with the circlip, that's in the top of the fork legs, and stops the top bush, and thus the stanchions from coming out.
That can be a right faff to get out and a bigger one to get back in.

I guess you'd need to check the condition of the stanchions, if they are badly corroded then they will eat the new seals in short order.
Obviously there maybe wear on the bushes, inside the fork leg, but you won't know that until you have it all apart.

[david.anderson]

It is actually very easy to make a fork seal holder removal tool.I made the tool in the photo below about 35 years ago( with basic tools) and it has been used on many occasions. It is made from a piece of 1 1/4" galvanised water pipe, which actually measures 1 3/8" inside diameter. Just mark and cut the bottom of the pipe with a hacksaw and file to size. The dogs on the bottom are 1/2" wide and 1/4" deep. The water pipe was just a fraction too wide externally so I filed about 1/16" off the outside of the dog only. Then all you need to do is to weld a couple of handles on.
David

[tfritts]

That looks like a good idea too. I tried to get the chrome covers off and ended up ruining one and gave up on the other....the bike frame had been sitting out for so many years....I will just get new ones when I head over this week. Thanks for the inspiration on the tool building!

[Paul_Linden]

It will help if you clamp the bottom of the fork leg in a vice (with something to protect it from being scratched by the vice). This will hold it rock solid while you turn the oil seal holder. Don't clamp it by the mudguard bracket as this will just twist and distort the fork leg.
When I took mine off I couldn't have done it without the tool - the seal holders were stuck solid after 30 or so years being stood without moving.
Draganfly have the tool in stock for £21.23+Vodka And Tonic.
http://www.draganfly.co.uk/shop/pd-2093 ... goryId=815

I'm rebuilding a Colt myself - you can see my progress right here on the AOMCC forum.
http://forum.arielownersmcc.com/viewt ... f=40&t=506
(which reminds me, I must put the pictures of the engine strip down there.)

[tfritts]

Just got back from England where I was able to get everything I needed as far as tools and seals etc. I got everything stripped down and cleaned on the front forks. I have another question, how much and what weight fork oil should I put back in? The manual say 1/4 pint which doesn't seem like enough...and it also calls for 20W which seems too thick...I put 10 in my 750 shadow which is a bigger heavier bike. Any suggestions? Thanks!

[david.anderson]

Use 20 grade engine oil. Do not use fork oil as fork oil grades are different to engine grades (they are lighter so you would have to use a much heavier fork oil grade). There was no such thing as fork oil when your forks were made so they were designed for engine oil. Ariel four strokes (VH KH and 4s) forks are filled until they are between 17” and 18” from the top of the tube however I am uncertain as to whether the colt has shorter forks than the rest of the range in which case this figure would differ so I would stick with 1/4 pint.
David