Hi
I've searched the forum for an answer to this but didn't find any - apologies if I missed something.
I'm trying to remove the forks from my 58 FH, I've slackened the pinch bolts and the cap nuts but no amount of gentle persuasion is having any effect - I've gone to the extent of trying my hydraulic puller but still no joy:
Penetrating fluid is wicking down between the lower yoke and stanchion and I've applied same to the top yoke.
Am I correct in thinking the stanchion is stuck in the yoke due to it's taper or is there something else holding it in place?
Does anyone have any tips for splitting the parts before I get the propane torch out?
Regards Mick
Removing Stanchion From Yoke
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Re: Removing Stanchion From Yoke
Mick:
Take the top yoke off first - once all the nuts are off just tapping it (upwards) should free it if it's tight.
Then taking each leg at a time, take out the pinch bolt in the lower yoke and tap something like a screwdriver or chisel into the slot to open it up.
You may find the leg just drops out, you may need to work it a bit, but it shouldn't need a puller!
HTH
SG
Take the top yoke off first - once all the nuts are off just tapping it (upwards) should free it if it's tight.
Then taking each leg at a time, take out the pinch bolt in the lower yoke and tap something like a screwdriver or chisel into the slot to open it up.
You may find the leg just drops out, you may need to work it a bit, but it shouldn't need a puller!
HTH
SG
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'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
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Re: Removing Stanchion From Yoke
Mick
I have just removed the stanchions on my 57 VH and they have not been out since it was built, like Simon Says I just wedged the slot slightly the only thing I did different was just slightly crack the top nut and give it a tap with a heavy nylon cap hammer they both popped off the taper no problem.
Regards Steve
I have just removed the stanchions on my 57 VH and they have not been out since it was built, like Simon Says I just wedged the slot slightly the only thing I did different was just slightly crack the top nut and give it a tap with a heavy nylon cap hammer they both popped off the taper no problem.
Regards Steve
57VH 58VH 56HS IN A 58FH Frame, mortal remains of a 57NH 1999 FZS 600
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Re: Removing Stanchion From Yoke
I would take it easy with the aluminium. It's not that tough, The puller looks like a reasonable one. Tension it and then a sharp crack with a 'medium" hammer and a hollow brass drift on the centre element of it straight down and /or try boiling water poured around the part where the taper is. that will save burning the paint. Have everything holding the top casting on released, and the gaps spread on the lower clamps with hex bolts out. It wouldn't hurt to grip the front wheel between your legs and twist the handle bars as if to exert a force as you turn each way, a few times. Nev
Re: Removing Stanchion From Yoke
Hi
Thanks for the advice - they're out
They were, as I suspected, being held by the tapers - the lower yoke was not gripping them at all once the pinch bolts were loosened. No amount of downward pressure would move them but vigorous tapping the top yoke from underneath with a club hammer via a brass drift and the application of heat from a hot air gun moved them in the end, (I think the inertia from the fork legs played a part).
Thanks for the heads up that the yokes may have been alloy, a quick check with a magnet revealed them to be cast steel so I was confident to tackle them in the above manner.
Regards Mick
Thanks for the advice - they're out
They were, as I suspected, being held by the tapers - the lower yoke was not gripping them at all once the pinch bolts were loosened. No amount of downward pressure would move them but vigorous tapping the top yoke from underneath with a club hammer via a brass drift and the application of heat from a hot air gun moved them in the end, (I think the inertia from the fork legs played a part).
Thanks for the heads up that the yokes may have been alloy, a quick check with a magnet revealed them to be cast steel so I was confident to tackle them in the above manner.
Regards Mick
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