Simes' FH Rebuild

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Simon.Gardiner
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by Simon.Gardiner »

simon.holyfield wrote:....and think about how I'm going to remove the crankshaft pinion.
I took an angle grinder to my (car) track-rod end ball-pin extractor and thinned it down to fit over the slots on the pinion.
It fitted a treat....then I found finger-pressure was enough to wind the pinion off. Could probably have done the job with a couple of screwdrivers!

SG
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'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
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dave.owen
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by dave.owen »

I'm trying to remove z crank timing sprocket, it appears very tight, is a puller available,

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Steven.Carter
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by Steven.Carter »

Can you get a small puller behind it? Maybe you can grind one to shape or mabe make one from a coulple of bolts. Its only a straight fit with a key. Mine came loose!
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simon.holyfield
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by simon.holyfield »

Thanks guys. Before I can think about pullers, I've measured the crankshaft pinion nut at something like 0.775", or almost 20 mm? There's no 13/32" CEI size is there?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
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dave.owen
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by dave.owen »

I've just got the gear off, used a Norton puller.
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simon.holyfield
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by simon.holyfield »

What wrench/socket did you use, Dave?
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
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dave.owen
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by dave.owen »

DSC_0024.JPG
Simon here is the Norton puller MCA P158

A tight fit but it worked.
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simon.holyfield
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by simon.holyfield »

So here's a summary of the weekend's activity - getting nearer completing the strip of the timing gear in preparation to splitting the crankcases.

As you will remember, I'd removed the dynamo sprocket after a bit of a struggle and went on to make a gudgeon pin puller so that I could lock the crankshaft, prior to removing the rest of the timing gear. I locked the crank with a bit of 5/8" bar through the little end eyes, protecting the crankcase mouth with some strips of 3/8" MDF, then I knocked back the tab washers on the oil pump & camshaft nuts. Both these nuts appear to have a 25/32" hexagon, close to 20mm - I used a 20 mm six sided socket. Fortunately neither nut was particularly tight and they came off with no drama. The camshaft pinion is provided with two 1/4" BSC tapped holes, so its easy to pull the pinion off:
IMG_20181124_171734.jpg
With the cam pinion out of the way, I could wind off the oil pump drive and remove the oil pump. It's a mazak type pump - we'll think about replacing that at some point, but it probably won't be in the first phase of this rebuild. I might buy an SRM one.
IMG_20181124_173930.jpg
The oil pump drive is damaged. We'll have to get it clean to see if it is useable. It's not a very good picture but a small part of the gear is broken. It seems odd that this weak pinion is pulled up tight to control axial movement on the crankshaft:
IMG_20181124_173940.jpg
I was concerned about pulling the crankshaft pinion off - or rather, I was concerned about spending more time making another puller. In the event, it moved with the slightest encouragement from a pair of screwdrivers (I think Steve C mentioned that his wasn't difficult). Now I just have to clean the parts up and store them before moving on to the crankcase and crankshaft.
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
Simon.Gardiner
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by Simon.Gardiner »

Simes
Axial movement of the crank is controlled by the drive-side lipped roller and the inside face of the timing side main, not the gubbins in the timing chest!
I think the official way of removing the oil pump is to pull out a couple of the studs and swing it down and away from the drive before removing it, then deal with the worm drive on the end of the crank. Doing things the other way round might break the worm drive - which is what's happened to yours?
Incidentally, does the missing chunk match up with that bit of stray metal you found earlier on?

SG
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'55 Huntmaster, '56 VH, ' 51 VH, '62 Arrow, '80 R100RT, '00 Sprint ST (now with a new Arrow project, and just now those 4-stroke Ariel parts can't even make one running bike...)
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simon.holyfield
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Re: Simes' FH Rebuild

Post by simon.holyfield »

Simon.Gardiner wrote:Simes
Axial movement of the crank is controlled by the drive-side lipped roller and the inside face of the timing side main, not the gubbins in the timing chest!

SG
That makes more sense. I'll get to understand that in a few days I guess, when I get it apart.

I'm hoping that I didn't break the worm drive - the ones I've seen are not cheap. Hopefully when I've cleaned it there will be some age to the break... It doesn't match the bit I found earlier, which I still think is part of the ATD, but having learned how it comes apart I'm going to have a conversation with Mr Cooper before I attack it.

Incidentally, I'm leaning towards replacing the crank with a large journal crank, given that the journals will likely all need machining and the splines are none too hot.
cheers

Simes

'51 Square Four,
'58 Huntmaster,
'42 W/NG,
'30 Model A
https://ariel-square-four.blogspot.com
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