Ariel VB600

[brenton.roy]

Hi Nick, I use a gel type battery, which should last longer than a plain lead acid type, particularly with irregular use. The biggest one that will fit.
Oil is a personal thing. You get lots of opinions. Mine is that the best oil is clean oil. The old oil in your bike will have left some crap that the detergents will pick up. There is no filter as such, so said crap will stay in suspension or settle out in the tank / sump. Once you have cleaned the sludge trap out, and the oil tank (take it off, wash it out in kero, put a handful of nuts in the filler hole and shake it until your arms fall off), you might treat the bike like you are running it in. That is to use cheap oil and change it after a couple of hundred miles. Do this a couple of times and then use the best oil you can afford to change regularly. Either a multigrade for older engines or a straight 50.
Looks like you are going pretty well with the bike.
Brenton

[nickphipps]

Thanks all for you replies so far.....i have a couple more questions though, i have found a local stockist of Silkoline straight 40 oil, and says it comes with no detergents, they also offer one that has detergents........not sure which to go for?, or is either ok...... not sure if cheap or not, £28 for 5lt........sounds ok though........many thanks

[brenton.roy]

Hi Nick, it's really your decision. Well, decisions as you have two.
Detergent oil will pick up more of the gunge inside your motor. The downside is that this is going through bearings. The upside is that we're talking about carbon, not sand or grit. This why I suggested a cheap detergent oil, changed quickly. This will pick up some of the carbon and keep it in suspension. When you change the oil, you'll have cleaned some of it out.
The rating for multigrades is highest / lowest viscosity at a certain temperature. For straight oils, there is no low rating. This doesn't mean that they stay at SAE 40 or 50 when heated. The low number just isn't guaranteed. Multigrades have chemicals added to maintain viscosity through the range of temperatures.
The other way is to buy an aftermarket cartridge filter. These are available at Draganfly or on ebay.
Brenton

[nickphipps]

Just a quick update on progress.......I now have the oil, ready for complete oil change...I have taken rear wheel off and checked bearings, and also checked the rear brake pads, though they are fairly close to the rivits, maybe 2-3mm away.......took the chance to clean chain, looked like it hasnt been cleaned since 1954, with so much caked oil on there.......also cleaned the area where the front final drive sprocket is, and this too was full of hardish oil.........i am now thinking that the drip of oil mentioned on a different post, might have been from this.....anyway all clean now.....I had a slightly leaky carb and assume that it is either a worn float valve or purferated float......luckily Burlen fuel systems that stocks and makes Amal carbs is only a short walk from me so picked up a new float and valve, will fit over the weekend........i wanted to clean out the oil in the primary case but needs to have clutch taken apart for that so might see how it goes......i did find a small drain hole in the casing so should be able to get rid of some that way..................That MOT is looking ever nearer now........cant wait to get riding it.........

[nevhunter]

A generator that has not been used for a while may have lost it's residual magnetism and will not excite itself. You can correct this by momentarily flashing the "A" terminal, from the non-earthed side of the battery.(accumulator). This works whatever the polarity. The generator doesn't have to be turning, at the time. Nev

[brenton.roy]

Hi Nick, it sounds like you are really into it now. 2 or 3 mm of material over the rivets is still plenty to keep you going.
Re the drive sprocket / primary case, it's a fair bit of work to get this apart, just for cleaning. When you do, you will probably want to replace the chain with a new (good quality) one and replace the tab washer on the clutch drum. Neither are very expensive. If you wait until you are riding the bike, you will have an idea of how close the gearing is to what you would like. My guess is that you'll be looking for a larger crankshaft sprocket. These are often on ebay.
The oil leak is possibly from the chain oiler in the primary case.

[nickphipps]

Well, i have the mot booked in for thursday 15th, i have now rebuilt the carbs, and fitted new gasket set, have also cured the fuel leak........oil system has been flushed and has new oil in, and is no longer leaking, must have been from the build up of old oil....all bolts double checked, a few repairs still to do in the wiring loom......will give the dyno flashing a go, was a bit concerned with blowing something.......lol....hopefully can get a quick ride in this afternoon to make sure it all works...and stops.........Nick

[ben.mitchell]

The advantage of these 1954 non s/arm machines is that you get a nice traditional plodder in a rigid/tele rolling chassis ...but all with a decent side stand that actually works! Please do not 'restore' it.
Ben

[nickphipps]

Hi, it wont be restored, as was not how my step father would have wanted it......he was all for showing a bit of wear, adds to its character he used to say..........I have quite a substancial amount of oil coming from the hole in the bottom of the clutch cover, i know i over filled the primary, but with the amount of oil dropped, it should be well below the oil level screw.......is there any way of checking if there is still enough in there.......?

[john.nash]

read this first:

http://forum.arielownersmcc.com/viewt ... p?f=4&t=51

Ignore the level screw.
Unscrew the filler and kick the bike over ( not running); run your finger along the chain. If you have "oily finger" then you're good
Alternatively peer inside (with torch) and see where the level is and how much of the chain is in it. It just needs to "kiss" it.