Ariel VB600

[nickphipps]

Hi all, I am a very proud owner of a rigid Ariel vb600 of 1954, It used to be my step fathers since the early 70's, and was passed down to me when he died late last year.........i am not attempting to do a show room restoration as this is not how my step father would have wanted it.......more just to keep it going in its original patena........So my question is this, does anyone know how rare these bikes are now?, are they something that will be seen at every classic motorcycle show?, is parts availability fairly good? and lastly are there any members on this site very familiar with this bike? as may need your help from time to time......lol....

[jerry.mortimore]

Nick, Your VB is an unusual one. In 1954 all the singles and twins went to swinging arm frames except the VB. That went into a swinging arm frame in 1955. So that tank desinged to fit the rigid frame but with the chrome flashes was only for 1954. I think VBs generally are getting rarer since people keep fitting ohv top ends to them. I like my VB, it is relaxed and easy to ride. Good luck with it.
Jerry

[nickphipps]

I appear to have a dynamo issue and have done the usual checks but still showing 0 volts, so was prepared to get that sent off with the voltage regulator to be serviced, in the mean time i was going to get the timing and valve clearances sorted out, i am generally clear about the procedure, other than a litlle confused about best way to find tdc, i know it needs to be on the compression stroke, but the spark plug is slightly off set as far as i can tell, i was thinking of using a dowel to show it, but if not resting on the piston makes it rather difficult.........

[john.nash]

discussed before:

http://forum.arielownersmcc.com/viewtopic.php?

On the compression stroke, the valves will be closed.
To be certain, you take the little square cover off the side, where you adjust the valves, and leave the spark plug in.
As you move the kickstart, then it starts to become increasingly hard to turn rotate it, which means the piston is coming up on it's compression stroke. At this point the valves will be closed, and you will be able to rattle the "valve adjusters" with your finger. I cannot remember what the clearances are, but there will be some.

You won't be able to move the piston the small increments, with the kickstart, to get timing spot on (you also cannot roll the engine backwards if you go too far using the kickstart). For that, the plug has to come out, the bike on it's centre stand and top gear selected. You can then rock the engine backwards and forward by moving the backwheel either way.

If you have not done this before then it's worth kicking it round a few times and watching which way the points on the end of the cam rotate (clockwise on mine). Then you ascertain where the compression stroke is, as above, and then take out the plug and the little bolt over the piston.

Expect to spend a long time sorting this out, first time.
To be fair, it's an utter faff as the timing covers needs to come off etc etc .

[john.nash]

testing dynamos:

http://forum.arielownersmcc.com/viewt ... ?f=8&t=189

Pull the lucas documentation, on that post, and check the:

1. state of the commutator.
2. state of the brushes
3. state of the wiring
4. See if it will "motor"
5. then check the Field coil resistance and the segments on the armature of continuity.

You can do all this yourself and the chances are that it'll be one of the above.

[brenton.roy]

Hi Nick, I hope the bike goes well for you.
You might consider just taking the head off to do the timing. Particularly the first time. This will allow you to see exactly what is happening and is one of the real advantages of a side valve.
While you are there, you can scrape off some carbon and check out the valves and seats. There's nothing to disturb but the gasket.
If you use an annealed copper head gasket, you can recycle it several times.
VB's generally have very low compression, a long stroke and are relatively slow revving. They were often used as sidecar bikes and they have heaps of torque.
If your step-father used the bike with a sidecar, the gearing might be a bit too low for everyday riding. The only way to easily change it is to replace the primary drive sprocket front of primary chaincase. Jerry, John or one of the regular VB riders will have a better idea, but you could aim for 21 or 22 teeth on this sprocket. (This requires taking the clutch apart, so it may be something to leave for later.)
regards, Brenton

[p tuxworth]

wish id have left mine like that but i found it a bit to slow for round where i live ( full of idiots most of which dont hold a uk licence ) i still have the engine so maybe one day
http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb4 ... kes038.jpg

[nickphipps]

Thank you for the replies, i think i will go down the lines of taking the head off the bike. I have read about decoking the head so may as well do it at the same time........what would anyone recommend for de coking, i have read why it needs to be done but there is very little on the procedure or tooling to use..........i also have a more concerning question, about the advance/retard...Should the lever move a fair amount, as mine does, maybe 120 degrees......but the effectivness of the advance /retard is only on a very small part of this..........please excuse my ignorance, but everyone needs to start some where....if anyone has any ideas i appreciate the help......

[Graham.Goral]

Nick,

Get yourself a copy of Waller, as it answers most questions you will need to ask. Two copies on eBay at the moment depending on how good a copy you want.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WALLERS-RESPE ... 35b8e4ec32

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ariel-Motorcy ... 35b8dd496e

Cheers and good spannering!
Graham

[p tuxworth]

where in the uk are you please