Lazarus rising: 4G assembly

[Richard Kal]

Hi all,
More than 10 years ago I bought a 1957 VH, and thrown in with the deal were several frames found on a farm tip.
One of them proved to be for a 1938 4G, so having built several bikes up before from one item, I started hunting and collecting parts.

Paul Jameson advised me that the bike originally went to Aberdeen, so how it ended up on a farm in York, Western Australia would be an interesting story if I ever find out.

Anyway, I have tracked down 95% of the parts; couldn't have done it without the help of so many people in this wonderful club.
(Thanks Guy, Paul, and others).

I am now going to check out the frame for alignment, etc, and prepare it for painting.

I am seeking opinions on the amount of clearance in the LH slot for the rear brake (stub shaft) adjustment. It has spread (tapered open) by 0.050" over its length.

Is this normal for a well travelled frame?

How would I correct it?

Thanks,
Richard
Maida Vale (Perth)
Western Australia

[adrie.degraaff]

Put a glueclamp on the end, than heat the top inside until red, don't let it go to far down.

[paul.jameson]

As I never even thought of measuring mine, I am unable to offer an opinion - beyond the fact that it is not something which would concern me in the slightest.

[Bob.Murphy]

it is not something which would concern me in the slightest.

+1.

Providing the shaft is well supported on either side of the slot I wouldn't have considered it an issue either. The load is going to be on the upper face and the thrust will be towards the front under power. Under braking, the torque arm will take the anti-clockwise rotational forces and the wheel spindle will do what . . . Try to rise up against the top of the slot - where it is already ??

I suppose that the spindle will try to drop in the slot under over-run (without brakes), but is this force high enough to move the locked spindle whilst the load is still on the frame ??

It doesn't look as though the spindle will be trying to jump up and down.

I would be very wary of heating and 'adjusting' the frame casting - do people actually do this ??

I admit its nice to "get it right" .

Bob.

[pappleton]

If Richard is going to straighten the frame, it might prove a challenge to get the wheels in line in the vertical plane. If the wheels are built true, the back one would be leaning to the right by a considerable amount at the rim. I'd do as Adrie suggests, after a lot of measuring to see what other problems are present. Looks like a nice table to give it a 'push' in the right direction.
BR, Paul

[Richard Kal]

Hi Paul,
Table is 1" plate top (500 kg all up weight - it doesn't move easily!), with adjustable legs and set up with a machine level to 0.002" out of level, so it is perfect to work off. I have drilled a pattern of 3/4"holes in the top, and have high tensile threaded rod, and mechanical and hydraulic jacks.

The RH axle adjuster was snapped off, so I machined a drill guide from key steel, and successfully drilled it out square, and re-tapped.

Will machine supporting blocks tonight from aluminium for the tubing.

The wheels are assembled (stainless rims & spokes).

I have other issues with the frame, but want to get the rear axle parallel & square first.

The rear stand needs the 1/2"joining tube replaced, and there is distortion and wear on the rh pivot point (lug) for the stand.

More to come.......

Richard

[simon.holyfield]

This promises to be a fascinating thread. Keep it coming!

[Richard Kal]

Thanks Simon,
You are my inspiration for documenting the assembly.
I found your blog so informative and interesting I hope that maybe others can gain something from my experiences (good, bad and frustrating) re-birthing an otherwise discarded bike.

Richard

[Richard Kal]

Wheels awaiting a straight frame.
Front brake drum supplied from the club spares; thanks!!
Rear wheel is the 3 bolt QD; brake assembled. The drum ID was trued, and OS linings machined to suit.
Hubs powder coated.

The other two assembled wheels are for another project; 1927 Model A

[Richard Kal]

NOS barrel from Sydney; with set of pistons. Yet to be painted.

I have a set of club rods to go in, Thorspark electronic ignition (6V; already fitted into magneto)
Bronze rocker box assembled (head overhauled).
Manx Classic Spares heavy duty rocker cover, Bruce Longman camshaft oiler spray bar, Morgo pump.

I will make an oil filter, and install a cooler.

Gearbox supplied by Michael Browne, overhauled; extra oil slingers installed on clutch (from club spares)