Ariel Arrow starting

[roy.craddock]

Hi, I'm new to the forum and just wondered if anyone can help me, I have just finished restoring a 1960 arrow, but I can't seem to get it started,,I have a great spark at the plugs, it has kicked back a couple of times , but just won't fire up, My own thoughts at the moment are carburettor , I have cleaned it out etc , I disconnected the plugs and kick over a few times to see if I could get oil on the plugs but that didn't seem to happen either, the engine when I bought it about 2years ago was supposed to have been overhauled, I had it rebored and new Suzuki pistons etc , any pointers would be most welcome Roy

[Roger James]

Welcome to the forum Roy. I'm trying to diagnose what the problem might be from what you have mentioned, quite a few things come to mind but at least you have been getting a kickback that is a good sign, at least it is trying and not totally dead, although you have a spark at the plug are you satisfied that you've got the timing set correctly, if so have you got a supply of fuel running into the carburettor, if yes and you've been kicking it over its possible that the crankcase is flooded although you've not found wet plugs, perhaps just kicking it over isnt drawing fuel mix through from the carb, have you used the tickler to flood the float chamber, if not then try that. There is no mention of how long its been since the engine was last run, at the present time assuming the crank seals are o.k. the Arrow could perhaps do with a push and bump start to get the engine turning over at a reasonable rate you cannot achieve with the kickstarter, alternatively try a Paddock starter if you have one or know someone with one see if you can borrow it.
Any signs of wet plugs and still wont start another trick I've used successfully to get a reluctant engine to fire up is to remove plugs, kick it over a few times then fit a spare pair of plugs heated up on the gas stove, fit them to the engine as soon as you can whilst hot, its not easy juggling hot plugs to get them started on the thread but hotter the better then try starting the engine on the kickstarter, keeping the throttle just open a fraction. See how you get on, no joy get back to us.
Roger

[AndyEames]

If its got contact breakers, wired back to front (so to speak) i.e. points for the left cylinder firing the right, and vice versa.

[roy.craddock]

Thanks for your replies, I have converted to a Draganfly electronic ign system , which as you probable know is a twin lead ht coil and a sensor and magnet switch very simple, I don't know when the engine was last run because I bought the bike as a non runner it was bought by someone else to restore but they changed their mind when they realised the work and costs involved so I bought it as a project as I have owned Arrows previously, I have set the sensor as recommended by Draganfly, using the timing peg at TDC with the cam magnet in the centre of the sensor switch..

[AndyEames]

Try rolling it in gear with the plugs out to clear the crankcases. More thorough than kicking it over, and more messy. Purists look away now : I have used a whiff of brake cleaner at the inlet of some motors to give it some encouragement. Just a whiff mind you. Can you turn it over slowly with the plugs out to see if will spark, then as soon as it sparks see how far away the timing pin is.

Good luck

[White.John.A]

Hi Roy, I am going through exactly the same experience as you. I have had my bike running using the original points system but it just won’t start with the Draganfly electronic ignition. I returned the ignition to Draganfly, who kindly tested it for me and said it was working OK. But having refitted it, the bike refuses to start. I have fitted new seals and had it rebored. Updated the electrics. Great spark. Plugs are getting wet and it does try to fire into life, but not quite. I am going to fit the old points back when I have time, if it runs with points I will know that there is a problem with the electronic ignition.

[Roger James]

Regarding the above post, I'm aware of two other Leaders that had the Draganfly ignition system fitted but the engines wouldnt run, as a last resort the original points/coils system were re fitted and the engines then started and ran o.k. - draw your own conclusions from this. Roger

[ken-drink]

this has me worried as i have just bought one to fit to my leader and the coil as well, hope i have not wasted my money, will let you know how i get on.
ken

[AndyEames]

No help to Roy and the other 'non starters' but on one of our competition engines we are going to try Sovek (Russian) ignition that is made for the Jawa 350 twin. Bought it off ebay from the Ukraine. Cost about £40 including postage. Arrived within 5 days. Includes a twin lead coil and plug leads and (it says) it will operate in a range of 5.6 to 16 volts.So suitable for 6 or 12 volt systems. It is optically triggered and all you need is a power source as it comes with its own loom. Downside is that the instructions are (obviously) in Russian. But, hey ,its not rocket science (or is it ?). Bit of conversion work to do for the back-plate and rotor, but once we've done one we can do more.

[roy.craddock]

Hi Roger, Thanks for all your info,,I don't have a paddock starter, but what I'm going to use is a 36volt cordless drill and a socket,remove the alternator cover make sure that ignition is switched off and instead of pushing it as Andy suggested, I'm going to try and wind it up a bit to see if the crankcase is flooded, about The Draganfly system,being a retired electrical engineer I can't find any faults with it as it is giving me a great spark even on 6volt battery! I'm beginning to think it could be the infamous centrecrankshaft seals? Or the carb..Roy