The KH project
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: The KH project
Yes, Those '54 - '57 models are wonderfull & stylish machines !!
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- Steven.Carter
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Re: The KH project
Hmm, I agree. being a 57 model myself. Although I must have been manufactured in 56Vincent.vanGinneke wrote:Yes, Those '54 - '57 models are wonderfull & stylish machines !!
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Re: The KH project
In my search for the right grade spark plugs for my KH It is nice I did find these NOS Lodge CN!
Although I do understand NGK B5HS will be a good alternative...
Although I do understand NGK B5HS will be a good alternative...
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Re: The KH project
Wet sumping...
Alas, despite the oil pump is reconditioned it is leaking and is causing wet sumping...
I understand this is cetainly not uncommon on these twins. I did take some time to think it over and how to cure this unpleasant habit.
Well someone told me the best way to avoid wet sumping is just ride the bike regular! However in real life that is not the case...
On the Net there's a abundance of inline systems, mostly relying on a ball and spring configuation as used with Velocette (but that is a roller bearing bigend!). Reviews from Norton users are both positive and negative... Although I did speak some who are satisfied about the Velo system I'am not realy convinced. I have the feeling there allways will be some kind of oil restriction due to the ball which have to be pulled into the spring to let the oil pass bye. The internal bore of a ''normal'' Ariel copper oil line is aprox. 1/4'' or 6.35 mil. and the solder nipple which connect the line on the engine will read a bore of about 5 mill.
I can't imagine the 'Velo valve' will give the same amount of free oil flow, but I can be mistaken?
What thoughts are on this forum about this matter taken in account whe are talking about bigend shells and not a roller bearing?
Alas, despite the oil pump is reconditioned it is leaking and is causing wet sumping...
I understand this is cetainly not uncommon on these twins. I did take some time to think it over and how to cure this unpleasant habit.
Well someone told me the best way to avoid wet sumping is just ride the bike regular! However in real life that is not the case...
On the Net there's a abundance of inline systems, mostly relying on a ball and spring configuation as used with Velocette (but that is a roller bearing bigend!). Reviews from Norton users are both positive and negative... Although I did speak some who are satisfied about the Velo system I'am not realy convinced. I have the feeling there allways will be some kind of oil restriction due to the ball which have to be pulled into the spring to let the oil pass bye. The internal bore of a ''normal'' Ariel copper oil line is aprox. 1/4'' or 6.35 mil. and the solder nipple which connect the line on the engine will read a bore of about 5 mill.
I can't imagine the 'Velo valve' will give the same amount of free oil flow, but I can be mistaken?
What thoughts are on this forum about this matter taken in account whe are talking about bigend shells and not a roller bearing?
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Re: The KH project
A lot of classic bike owners are fitting a valve from a Yamaha outboard for control of wet sumping.....Im told they are so popular,that the valves are on backorder,as supplies are sold out.
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Re: The KH project
The Yamaha valve may indeed be very suitable. I've owned 5 Velo's and never had any problems with the original set up. Most bikes sump but the Ariel PLUNGER type shouldn't so don't worry about any valve or tap on THOSE engines.
The twin and later squares are gear type. If you have a tap one day someone will forget it, or I had someone (not me) turn the oil tap off on my Scott, ( a two stroke with a pilgrim pump). thinking it was the fuel tap, to stop the carby dripping. Murphy's law again. anyhow back to subject. The Velo valve is bigger than the bore of the oil pipe and has a very LIGHT spring. It also has one of the best oil pumps in the business. that sucks it open reliably. This set up CAN work, but I doubt I would trust something just knocked up from a few parts and a ball bearing and spring. The twins have an oil pressure gauge as do the squares. IF you ALWAYS check oil pressure normal on ALL starts a tap may work for you.. I am loathe to suggest something that operates electrically or on vacuum from the reliability aspect. Nev
The twin and later squares are gear type. If you have a tap one day someone will forget it, or I had someone (not me) turn the oil tap off on my Scott, ( a two stroke with a pilgrim pump). thinking it was the fuel tap, to stop the carby dripping. Murphy's law again. anyhow back to subject. The Velo valve is bigger than the bore of the oil pipe and has a very LIGHT spring. It also has one of the best oil pumps in the business. that sucks it open reliably. This set up CAN work, but I doubt I would trust something just knocked up from a few parts and a ball bearing and spring. The twins have an oil pressure gauge as do the squares. IF you ALWAYS check oil pressure normal on ALL starts a tap may work for you.. I am loathe to suggest something that operates electrically or on vacuum from the reliability aspect. Nev
- Vincent.vanGinneke
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Re: The KH project
First I had a small micro switch acting on the tap lever but that fell victim to Norton vibration.
Later this before flight tab.
Later this before flight tab.
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Re: The KH project
Vincent this 'before flight tab' looks quite fool-proof, and certainly can be a option.Vincent.vanGinneke wrote:First I had a small micro switch acting on the tap lever but that fell victim to Norton vibration.
Later this before flight tab.
Maybe this cord will also work in the same way and wil remind: ''Mind the Tap!!!!"
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- Steven.Carter
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Re: The KH project
Is it possible to fit a drain plug to the sump plate? maybe you could then just drain the oil out before riding.
Steve
Steve
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