oil tank

[RTichard Woolnough]

when I bought the bike I was aware the lower securing stud for the oil tank was broken and the tank retained by a cable tie,
won't be a problem, thought I, pop the engine plate off and tack a new one to it, oh yea? looked to me that I would probably have to remove all the primary side to get proper access to the nuts, don't really want all that palarva so have to think laterally--
I had a piece of 3mm [12thou?] plate which would fit alongside the engine plate, I countersunk the existing hole where the retaining stud should be, domed a bolt head to fit into it and then fitted this bolt through the piece of plate, drilled another hole 1" or so away but parallel to the new retaining bolt and to a size to fit over the engine bolt and will reassemble using this 'bodge' er I mean improvisation must be more resiliant than the cable tie.
what I also noticed with the tank off is a brass bolt to it's rear which appears to retain an oil filter on the flow side, is this a sevicable part can I take it out and wash the filter ? it appears that this would not be accessible with the tank mounted, bit puzzled by this so before I bugger anything up advice please.
I will try to show pics of the 'improvement' or perhaps Simon will.
Kind regads

[simon.holyfield]

I think you are talking about the oil strainer gauze at the back of the tank Richard? It's shown as item 3 in figure C1 of the workshop manual.

Happy to post pictures as usual.

[simon.holyfield]

Here's Richards pictures:

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[simon.holyfield]

[RTichard Woolnough]

away from the oil tank now, the small twin foot lift turned up today so I have been able to remove the front wheel to 'ave a gander' as was said, at the non retarding brake, well the shoes are quite tiny and absolutely covered in grease, so questions I ask.
the shoes are steel and not alloy is this correct?
the parts book shows a kinda grease seal for the wheel bearings, taper? someone has suggested sealed bearings so are these still a taper and is the suggestion correct please?.
where can I get replacements?
thanks for any help.
kind regards

[nevhunter]

It's a rather small axle and the original taper roller is not easy to get (I'm informed) I've managed to get a few for my bikes at a price. Tapered roller bearings carry more load.. Being imperial (inch) sizes makes any bearing expensive potentially. There's an open drive gear there too which requires occasional lubrication (Sparingly like any time brakes are nearby). The steel type brake shoes seem the most common on the W/NG's. Nev

[nevhunter]

Repair of the RH Rear RH engine plate short threaded stud. (3/8 x 26 tpi)
It appears to be only welded in originally. I part threaded a new stud in and then TIG welded the end from the other side with a substantial weld melt for strength. The short thread holds it square, while this is happening. The inside face has to be flush to allow the gearbox adjustment. It's tricky getting it off and I reckon you would need the cam cover and magneto right out of the way, and the two frame to plate (special) bolts have the nuts on the battery side. Don't forget the spacer between the plates for the foot pegs long stud. It's often left out causing plate distortion.Nev

[RTichard Woolnough]

thanks New, 'twas my intention to repair it in a like manner to yourself but couldn't face the palarva of removing the rear engine plate so have tried this easier remedy, shouldn't think there is a lot of stress on the bolt but if it does become 'buggered' it is easily replaced,
There does not appear to be anything wrong with the bearings now fitted so I'm wondering in the light of what you say, whether a proper oil seal could be sourced, in amy case I shall have a look at the bearings, wash them, and wipe in Wynns friction proofing followed by a smearing of moby grease, all very sparingly of course,
Are the linings readily available do you know?
just an aside, why was a brake rod used and not a continuous cable for the front brake pull?, just seems to make it more complicated, I know other girder forks had rods but you would have thought for a utility machine cheap and simple would have been the norm.
thanks for your help
Kind regards

[simon.holyfield]

Richard, I've just had Villiers Services re-line my steel W/NG shoes. Very successful.

I assume the rod is used to avoid the use of a long cable, improving the brake by reducing cable stretch?

[RTichard Woolnough]

Thanks for this Simon and 'Cricky Quelch!' Nev the bearings are damn expensive at approx £42 a throw and two required! I shall inspect the ones I have very closely and if possible they will be reused having been sorted as previously stated. kind regards