oil tank

[nevhunter]

Richard if the dust cover fits the "special" nut. ( hex relieved on one side??) I don't think there will be much problem unless excess grease is applied to the hub. I use marine grease for extra protection from corrosion which is more likely on the non brake side from water entering. Nev

[simon.holyfield]

Richard if the dust cover fits the "special" nut. ( hex relieved on one side??) I don't think there will be much problem unless excess grease is applied to the hub. I use marine grease for extra protection from corrosion which is more likely on the non brake side from water entering. Nev

I have to say I am a bit confused about the sequence of nuts and spaces around the rear brake plate. I've looked at the pictures and the parts list.

Could someone please tell me the sequence of assembly from the bearing out through the brake plate?

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Would this help ?

And reg. the oil tank, dont forget to put a washer of the same thickness behind the top oil tank lug.
Very common to split the weld around the top lug on these tanks.

The front brake rod has a spring box in it as there is no spring -other then the shoe springs- around the lever spindle on the brake plate.
With a cable you would have to make up a other sort of return spring arrangement, possibly the factory found a rod the most satisfying way.

[simon.holyfield]

It does Vincent thanks. What is behind the brake plate, another nut?

[Vincent.vanGinneke]

Ehhhh, from memory,.. I think a thin nut with a shoulder to centre the brakeplate ?

[nevhunter]

The brakeplate is tight between two nuts. This makes it difficult to get the "flats" on the axle in the exact place on the rear assembly necessitating final tightening with the special thin spanner you all have. Ha Ha.. That doesn't apply to the front. An exploded diagram of the order of assembly would help. It takes me a while to get it right. Make your own dust cover to get a good fit on the "plain" part of the nut and it works fine, on the brake side. If you ride in the wet a lot I think a seal in the other side is warranted. These taper roller bearings will last a long time if no corrosion occurs.Nev

[simon.holyfield]

The brakeplate is tight between two nuts. This makes it difficult to get the "flats" on the axle in the exact place on the rear assembly necessitating final tightening with the special thin spanner you all have. Ha Ha.. That doesn't apply to the front. An exploded diagram of the order of assembly would help. It takes me a while to get it right. Make your own dust cover to get a good fit on the "plain" part of the nut and it works fine, on the brake side. If you ride in the wet a lot I think a seal in the other side is warranted. These taper roller bearings will last a long time if no corrosion occurs.Nev

I'll get a picture of what I have. I may have something missing or upside down.

[nevhunter]

MY opinion is only that. A "picture" (official) of the original layout settles the argument, if one is available. If you are mucking about with the W/NG front wheel the axle is quite small in diameter and if there are any issues with it a good replacement would be warranted. If you have one made the unthreaded length and location of it are important as is the fit of the races on the shaft. You also don't want the thread to be where the races are located and choose the material well. ARIEL axles are generally fairly soft so they bend rather than break, but you still need a decent material. Better than brightshaft. I would say around 30 ton tensile would be enough. High tensile is usually double that. There's a lot of freecutting steel about. It's leaded and useless for this application. Nev

[RTichard Woolnough]

thanks guys, I posted a bit about dust/oil seals on the 4 stroke portion , I tried Draganfly for replacement felts but they couldn't i/d 'em, so I have made an enquiry of a R/R supplier to see if he has any of the correct size, instead of Wynns, at the suggestion of a scientist chum I have wiped the bearings in 'Active 8' and will use Moby grease as I said sparingly, I would however like to replace the felts if possible, I would use a modern type oil seal if I could source one, it seems possible for the O/D but the inner dimension is a problem.
Oh and yes I did mic up the metal plate and used a corresponding thiclness of washer at the upper tank fixing,
thanks for all comments kind regards