w/ng purchase

[simon.holyfield]

Have you had a look at the clamp & clamp screw on the float chamber cap? Mine is very distorted & doesn't stiffen the thread at all.

[nevhunter]

Crushing the thing in the thread doesn't work for long. You can buy the top cover and special bolt NEW. Just lightly tighten new clamp bolt (for looks) and tighten cover with a ring spanner reasonably and it won't come loose. The top feed cover doesn't run the "tensioner bolt" at all. If you fit one . Any I've come across are made of brass (dull nickel plated). IF you choose to go top feed change the needle and modify the feed at the bottom to act as a guide only for the different needle. The bottom fitting is cast in so don't try to press it out . Machine part of it away and solder in the new brass part to the old brass part..Nev

[RTichard Woolnough]

yes I tightened the top with a ring spanner and it didn't make a bid for freedom again, that little screw on the top, locking I guess, does not touch the threads at all as far as I can see, is of no use at all, after removing the lower connection to the carb body, come to think of it, there was a slight drop from the union but this didnt show when the bike was running, but
I HAVE GOT TO DO SOMETHING ABOUT THE FRONT BRAKE!, the only thing it does is add weight to the front wheel.
And Nev 8 chaps from W/A turned up having shipped their bikes to Southampton and flying over themselves, then onwards to the Manx, couple prewar bsa, unusual Trimph 3T [1948] a Shadow, Norton, which kept catching fire, and dear to my heart, a mid 30's MAC. Kind regards

[RTichard Woolnough]

I have had to take the dynamo off to rebuild it, new/well secondhand, brush holder, new brushes and bearing on their way to me, however when I cleaned off the front plate I found a small stamping of a triangle appended thereon with a faint but obviously stamped letter 'R' in the triangle, any ideas? the dynamo is a correct E3lm. kind regards

[nevhunter]

The little bolt distorts part of the large thread.on the carby bowl top. You will see a cut milled just below the sealing face parallel to it, near the little bolt. When you tighten the little bolt if jambs the thread by pulling a section of it upwards. If you overtighten it, it works ONCE only.
Front brakes work OK of the trailing shoe has some lining removed and both shoes are not too hard a composition and they fit the drum surface. A cast iron drum as quite good in it's action, far better than steel. Nev

[RTichard Woolnough]

well the new[ish] brush plate arrived yesterday together with new bearing and brushes, bit of quandry at first as the replacement didn't have the small ears on the brush holders but they are superflous anyway. Put the whole thing together motored it and it worked, repolerised it installed back on the machine and lo and behold it only shows a charge! Yippee!
Andrew Guttman, Priory Magneto's couldn't have been more helpful, kind regards
[just gotta have a go at that equally superflous front brake now.]

[RTichard Woolnough]

Ardingly Sunday last waddayou know? expat from France had lots of original brake linings and found a pair for my steel shoes! so when I do manage to extricate this broom I shall fit and see what if any difference they make, kind regards

[RTichard Woolnough]

just had a closer look at the linings they bear a label stating fitment for 250 Ariel as well as the w/ng just wondering if the w/ng cast brake drum was taken from the 250? they also have W509 stenciled on 'em, any idea's? kind regards