Ariel Owners Motorcycle Club

Also test fitted the rear mudguard, which will require some fettling.

For the benefit of Keith, there are a few close ups of the finished end.

Another

Managed to get a start on some spraying today, laid some filler primer on to some bits. All cellulose. I think I have about another 4 days work in spraying alone. Shame work gets in the way sometimes!

I seem to have been spending a huge amount of time doing paint prep work over the last few weeks. Pays off though, paintwork is all in the prep work.

More to come...

Rob,
What an amazing job.

A lot is talked about cellulose, but what I can say from personal experience is that if done properly it lasts well.

Last time around when I had my bike painted (in 1976, yes 1976) the painting was done for me by a friend and the finish was excellent. It really is all in the preparation.

I too, like you, got a blank from Drags, but looking at what you have had done, I'm confident that I can sort it.

I real problem is with painting. Last time I tried in the garden I ended up with pollen and insects, although I did use acrylic and it doesn't dry so fast as cellulose. Problem is that I always seem to be working when weather conditions are optimal (and now I laying a patio and making a new shed - have to keep my boss on side).

Keep up the good work. I really am looking forward to seeing photos of the finished job!!

Keith

This is not an invite to a garden party, but I bought this 6 x 3 metre gazebo for my daughter's 21st... £85 from Homebase.

I sprayed a car with cellulose in one of these a few years ago, worked very well at keeping the weather at bay.

Thanks for the comments! Like I said, it is all in the prep work, I must have put 20 hours minimum in to paint, filling, rubbing down, stopper etc.

This time round I have been meticulous in using tack cloths and paint wipes before each coat, and mostly under the cover of my gazebo. It seems to have worked well.

I tried a different technique than usual on the top gloss coat; the owner of the motor factors I buy my paint from suggested rubbing down the top coat with 1200 grit, then misting over again with top gloss mixed 2 parts top gloss thinners to one part paint. It has improved the finish, but I still think it will benefit from a rub with some 1500 grit and polishing with some t cut - but I need to leave it to cure for a bit first (sitting in our spare bedroom nice and warm).

As it probably goes without saying, I learned these techniques from dad, I have no idea how he learned it...

I also learned a variety of swear words when fitting tyres and tubes, particularly when you pinch one while putting it in, which has come in handy this evening!

When spraying top clear coat I always rub back the paint to a matt finish first. It gives a good key for the clear coat

Dave

I've started using Farecla products for cutting paint. You don't get that bloom that comes with T-Cut.

Rob
It is looking good.
There were a couple of old tricks when using nitro cellulose or acrylic lacquers.
One was to add some silicone drops to the paint for a better finished shine off the gun. I noticed the silicone drops are still available at my local automotive paint store.
With a good job the finished coat was then rubbed back with 1500 – 2000 grit wet and dry to a perfect flat finish, then a buff with buffing compound was used to restore the shine. But the secret to a great depth of shine in the paint was to buff again with a new buff pad and a little cornflour on the pad. The cornflour works a treat with black paints.
David