My VB build.

[david.anderson]

Years ago I purchased a lot of cheap spares. Unfortunately most had been butchered in one way or another. The following photos will show some of the butchered parts which have been repaired. Among the spares was a near complete VB engine. While holidaying in Tasmania I stumbled onto a swap meet (autojumble) in the grounds of the bike museum in Launceston and I came away with a bare 1953 plunger frame. So now I would have a VB. The only minor fault with the frame was the sidestand fitting had been heated and spun around on the frame which meant reheating and spinning it back into position and feed in a little more bronze weld to be certain but apart from that the frame was in good order.
She who must be obeyed had other ideas and forbid me spending any more money on my bikes, and when I met up with her back at my car she even told me to take the frame back to the seller. But I had the frame now and told her that I would make all the missing parts. Well that was my storey and I did make some of the missing parts.

To start I had to make some engine plates. As I do not have the means to bend the plate I cut the plate almost through with a thin angle grinder disc, bend a degree or so too much then weld and allow the weld to pull the extra degree back to the correct angle.

[david.anderson]

One engine plate finished.

The front plates are just cut from the 5mm plate.

[david.anderson]

The rear suspension covers are made from 306 stainless exhaust. The outer cover was the correct internal dia so I turned the external down to fit. The inner cover was again turned thinner but as it was from 2” pipe I split it and welded in about 7mm and then welded a stainless washer on the bottom. All welding was oxy. Finally the pipe was polished with finer grades of paper down to 1200 grit and then to the buff.

I turned the rear suspension sliders. Here they are shown with an original. One still has to be cut to length.

I have just started to spray the frame.

[david.anderson]

The frame finished in 2 pack. And yes I wear proper protective clothing and face mask but as you can see do not have a spray booth.

The rear suspension components being fitted. Here a bush is being reamed to fit a link plate pin.

Turning a front axle. And I turned the rear also.

[david.anderson]

I trued the hubs. While it is best to turn the hub after the rim is laced, I have found it is more than acceptable to turn the bare hub. I am always careful to ensure even spoke tension.

[david.anderson]

This is one of the rear wheel spacers.

Here the rim is masked to spray the gold line.

Spoking the wheel

[david.anderson]

The finished wheel

As the bike may at some stage be fitted with a chair I wanted a good brake. I did think about a 4 leader brake plate but 4 leading shoes will not reasonably fit in a 7” hub, however 3 leading shoes will. In reality there is a bit less lining area with 3 leading shoes than with 2 leading shoes and the resulting brake is similar. I also consider a back to back hub but this set up is not so noticeable when I am trying to maintain originality.

[david.anderson]

Now that the bike is on wheels I need a stand. I cut some front and side templates from a plunger stand then cut the shapes from 4mm plate. The sides and front are then bent to fit each other and then welded up.

When welded the legs are rounded as original with an angle grinder.

[david.anderson]

The finished stand

[david.anderson]

Making the rear brake pivot pin.

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The battery tray back cut out and ready to weld in the battery strap fixing point.